marți, 22 martie 2022

Rick Owens launches a fragrance in collaberation with Aesop

Rick Owens is applying his signature aesthetic to skincare and fragrance in a new collaboration with Aesop. The collection includes a candle and a travel kit comprised of Owen’s favourite Aesop body and hair care products—Coriander Seed Body Cleanser, Resolute Hydrating Body Balm, Classic Shampoo and Classic Conditioner. Owens has also worked alongside perfumer Barnabe Fillion to create a signature perfume entitled ’Stoic’ that comes with a chain of ceramic beads that can be perfumed and worn to diffuse the scent throughout the day.  Fillion has made a name for himself in the world of perfumery with his idiosyncratic approach to fragrances. In addition to working with Aesop on almost all of their fragrances, Fillion has collaborated with artist Anicka Yi on ‘Biography,’ three fragrances designed to challenge historical definitions of femininity, and has developed his own fragrance line, Arpa, which enlists the talents of musicians, glassblowers, sculptures and more to simulate the experience of synesthesia. Fillion’s cerebral, multi-disciplinary approach to fragrance makes him an ideal collaborator for Owens, who has long drawn on movements in art, music, architecture to create his iconic, avant-garde aesthetic. In addition to the perfume, the pair have collaborated on the hand-held smoke machines that dispel clouds of perfume for Owen’s latest show at Palais de Tokyo.  Like Owens’ fashion designs, ’Stoic’ is a strange and singular fragrance that blends the sharp, spicy flavours of black pepper and coriander seed with earthy frankincense and patchouli. It is an unusual scent, but not so eccentric that it is off-putting. Rather, Owens wanted the fragrance to be something soothing and fit for everyday use.  ‘I am not sure if it was my body responding positively to the alchemy of the unguents they produce or my head responding to the quiet and gentle aesthetics of their ethos as a company,’ says Owens, ‘but Aesop’s balms represented a soothing mood that I wanted to continue seamlessly throughout my home life and my travel life.’ §
http://dlvr.it/SM9NFk

K-Pop hit factory gets a futuristic new office in Seoul

K-Pop’s star-makers YG Entertainment have got a brand new headquarters – a piece of futuristic office architecture to match their impressive ability to have their fingers on the global cultural pulse, when it comes to musical talent and chart-topping successes. The building, now the home of these giants in the world-famous South Korean music scene, comes courtesy of Dutch architecture practice UNStudio and sits in Seoul’s Mapo district, next to Yanghwa Bridge and the green island of Seonyudo Park.  UNStudio says that the headquarters is ’inspired by YG Entertainment’s business and the music industry in general.’ The overall, streamlined shape of the building, in fact, draws on musical references. ’The protective shell of the new HQ building manifests as a new ‘urban speaker’. It is designed to be more reminiscent of a product than a building; one in which every design feature has a performative function,’ the architects say. Additionally, as the new structure is located next to the YG Building, a multi-functional practice and performance space belonging to the same company, its massing reflects that of its neighbour, maintaining harmony and continuation in this Seoul streetscape.  The building contains a workspace for employees, chic meeting rooms for the multiple stars on its roster, and recording studios. The aim, the architects explain, is to create a space that is functional but also uplifting, to make for an engaging and motivating working environment for the company’s numerous employees and visitors.  The interior’s light-coloured tones and large openings help towards that. They invite the light in and direct the gaze out. Playful geometries create a sculptural, futuristic environment, while allowing the natural light to bounce off the walls. Tall ceilings, planted areas and expressive shapes make for an arresting interior, with an atrium placed at the heart of the internal arrangement, glazed on one side to open up towards the views. This also fits its site and context, as the plot is located on the edge between a housing district and a series of open urban spaces, including the river, a couple of parks and part of Seoul’s dense urban circulation network of roads and bridges. The project is designed to be orientated towards the long views of the adjacent public spaces and beyond - offering a sense of place in this dynamic and contemporary piece of office architecture. §
http://dlvr.it/SM8pPh

Mono Editions launches furniture in cork and paper pulp

Former gallerist Laetitia Ventura launched new brand Mono Editions with the aim of ‘discovering new talent and capturing the spirit of the times.’ Launched in Paris with a pop-up shop (136, rue Saint-Honoré , 23-27 March 2022) and two inaugural collaborations, Mono Editions focuses on pieces made with single materials defined by a sustainable approach. Armchair 12.8 by Gramme The first two collections feature pieces made of cork and paper pulp, featuring minimalist, modular forms in the single materials. The brand’s manifesto outlines its ambition ‘to limit the production chain in order to create design objects that are first and foremost accessible and sustainable objects of desire.’ Its furniture is imagined to be durable both from a manufacturing and aesthetic point of view, celebrating materials and craftsmanship. Cork Console by William Ventura with Lamp 2.9 made of paper pulp by Gramme Made of pulp paper, the Papierre collection by Romain Freychet and Antoine Prax of design studio Gramme ‘defies gravity’, thanks to the appearance of white stone and the lightness of paper. Looking like carved rocks, the geometric, grooved monoliths are inspired by classical architecture and their simple forms become a lamp, a chair and two tables. Their pieces, explain the architects, ‘evoke the aura of totems: the aesthetic borders on the spiritual. The architecture is combined with the sculptural.’ Cork tables by William Ventura A different approach was chosen by architect William Ventura, whose Liege collection comprises modular furniture - a console, a dining room table and a bookcase - made of dark cork. According to the architect, the pieces combine the spontaneity of art with the durability of architecture.’ The modular nature of the Liege collection is expanded by the possibility of taking each piece apart, for example to change the legs’ height on the table or console, or to add to the bookcase so that the piece can evolve with the interior of a space. § Detail of Lamp 2.9 made of paper pulp, by Gramme Armchair 12.8 by Gramme Disassembled cork table by William Ventura    
http://dlvr.it/SM8CLc

Step inside Formafantasma’s chic new live/work space in Milan

The area north of Milan’s Piazzale Loreto is not on the city’s traditional design circuits. It doesn’t have the cobblestoned charm of Brera and the fashion triangle, there isn’t an abundance of former warehouses turned into cultural destinations, and it’s probably not where you’d want to take a walk on a sunny day. There’s a tinge of dystopia to the area, which is defined by one of the city’s largest traffic arteries, a string of supermarkets, petrol stations, and apartment and office buildings that grow less and less picturesque as you move away from the city centre. But change is afoot: Milan-based architect Andrea Caputo is now working as part of a team to transform the Piazzale with green spaces and pedestrian areas ahead of the 2026 Olympics, a project that will instil new life into neighbouring areas. ‘The neighbourhood was really overlooked until now, but its transformation is evident,’ says Andrea Trimarchi, co-founder of design studio Formafantasma. ‘Restaurant openings, concerts, events in the area’s parks; so many new things are popping up. It’s also a very diverse area, with active local associations and several well-established South American and African communities.’ Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin with their Italian greyhound Terra in the studio’s reception area  Trimarchi and partner Simone Farresin are familiar with the area, having moved their studio (and their lives) into Assab One, a couple of kilometres north of Piazzale Loreto. A local institution, the not-for-profit cultural complex is spearheaded by Elena Quarestani, and known for its bright Nathalie Du Pasquier murals, as well as art, design and architecture exhibitions. It also includes a series of spaces that are slowly being populated by international creatives, from Studio Mumbai’s Milanese outpost to experimental events organisers Terraforma Editions and popular independent publishers Guide Moizzi and Blackie Edizioni. The area feels more relaxed and open-minded than central Milan, notes Farresin. ‘Being here feels in line with our principles.’ From Amsterdam to Milan Past designs on display on a bookshelf include ‘Still’, a 2012 crystal and copper water carafe for Lobmeyr, and ‘Moulding Tradition’, a series of vessels informed by a Sicilian ceramic tradition  Trimarchi and Farresin had lived in the Netherlands for 14 years, having moved their studio to Amsterdam in 2009 after graduating from Design Academy Eindhoven. They had been talking about returning to Italy for years, mostly for cultural and social reasons. ‘We didn’t imagine growing old in Amsterdam,’ admits Trimarchi. ‘We never fully integrated in the Netherlands; and the idea of community we have in Italy doesn’t exist anywhere else in Europe.’ Other reasons, such as the more structured approach to design in Italy, and the fact that many of their clients are based here, contributed to the decision.  They continue to maintain a second studio in Rotterdam, now led by designer Jeroen van de Gruiter, a fellow Design Academy alumnus who has been with Formafantasma since its early days. It currently operates as a satellite to the Milan HQ, but the idea is to eventually diversify the two locations’ output, in line with the pair’s long-term vision for their practice. ‘As we progress, our studio is increasingly becoming research-based, so that will likely become our focus in Milan, while Rotterdam might be where more of the designing happens. We are still trying to understand what might make sense,’ adds Trimarchi. Formafantasma’s Milan studio A Formafantasma-designed table and ‘Wireline’ chandelier for Flos in the large meeting/dining area are complemented by Gio Ponti’s classic ‘Superleggera’ chairs The Assab One space is remarkably similar to their previous live/work studio in Amsterdam: industrial, with high ceilings, exposed beams, and natural light flowing from large windows on the ground floor. ‘Once we saw it, it was natural for us to say yes,’ says Farresin. Moving in in summer 2021, they started transforming its 300 sq m of disused space into a functional office. To create the furniture, they called upon DiSé, a manufacturing studio based near Catania, Sicily, that specialises in the production of furniture and bespoke installation, and whose values (ethical, aesthetic and qualitative) are very close to Formafantasma’s own.  The Milan studio demonstrates the duo’s well-established ability to create holistic, aesthetically pleasing and thoughtful designs. Guests are greeted by their ‘Wireline’ chandelier, hung above a large dining table they also designed. On one side is a vast bookcase with some of their past projects on display. This more intimate living area is loosely separated from the larger office by a cupboard upholstered on one side in Vincent Van Duysen’s ‘Moiré’ textile for Sahco, in a sage green that complements the light maple of the furniture.  A round table, another of the studio’s maple creations, and a ‘ZigZag’ chair, designed in 1934 by Gerrit Rietveld and now produced by Cassina, in the more private mezzanine living area For the open space, the pair have designed large tables characterised by functional details such as small drawers and a discreet slit in the middle for cables; wall-mounted standing desks; stools in two sizes which are reminiscent of Japanese joinery; and a step stool loosely inspired by Shaker furniture. The pieces’ symmetrical straight lines are softened by rounded corners and angular edges. Everything is impeccably made in maple by DiSé, creating a calming visual consistency despite their distinctive forms. Lamps by Jasper Morrison for Flos are quiet luminal additions, and greenery punctuates the space. ‘We wanted the office to be visually noiseless,’ explains Farresin.  Every piece of furniture will become part of a growing collection, available to order from DiSé and imagined as Formafantasma’s response to the post-Covid workspace. ‘It speaks of the ambivalence between home and office. We wanted to design office furniture, but this office is also a home,’ says Trimarchi.  The studio’s evolution Houseplants grouped around a ‘Toio’ floor lamp by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni for Flos The Assab One space is a home for the designers and their Italian greyhound Terra, as well as a workspace for their eight-strong team, an international group (a rarity in Milanese studios) whose expertise covers different disciplines, from curation to design and architecture. ‘Our work could be seen as theoretical, but it’s actually extremely imbued in reality,’ says Trimarchi. ‘We aren’t just interested in academic work; we are practitioners, we work with clients to bring radical ideas into a context that is not typically radical – which has been the complicated part, as you have to find the right partners.’ Despite a string of successful collaborations, they admit to inhabiting an awkward space, between a clean approach to design thinking and a clientele who is not always receptive. ‘What we do is sometimes uncomfortable, but also very exciting.’  Projects such as ‘Cambio’, a deep dive into the timber industry first presented in 2020, have helped existing and prospective clients understand Formafantasma’s approach and potential. And even though brands still expect new products when approaching the studio, they now often start working with brands from the ground up, investigating their structures to achieve an impact that goes beyond product design.  A model of the 1938 Fiat Tagliero building in Eritrea and a piece from the studio’s De Natura Fossilium project, based on the culture of lava in Sicily, sit on a wall-mounted desk Among their projects for 2022 are an exploration of human and animal cohabitation through the topic of wool, to be unveiled at a new exhibition at Oslo’s National Gallery, and an in-depth analysis of Artek’s ecology, begun off the back of ‘Cambio’, which will result in a new iteration of the exhibition at Helsinki’s Design Museum. They have also been tasked with creating the spaces of the Giardini and Arsenale for the upcoming Venice Art Biennale, curated by Cecilia Alemani, and further exhibition designs for Bahrain’s Pearling Path and for the Fondation Cartier’s participation in the Milan Triennale. They are about to unveil a series of interiors for a global fashion retail network, and the design of a farmhouse in Puglia. Their launches at Salone del Mobile 2022 will include an aluminium bookcase for Hem, designs for Cassina and Ginori 1735, and a lamp collection for Maison Matisse. They aim for their Milanese studio to form part of a hub, a space for discussion and exchange of ideas. ‘Design in Milan is still very traditional,’ admits Trimarchi. ‘There aren’t many places for design debate, like the Triennale, and we hope that Assab One can become a magnet for a new generation of creative thinkers that is not well represented by the city.’ §    
http://dlvr.it/SM7kJQ

luni, 21 martie 2022

Valentino’s ‘Narratives’ series captures this season’s literary mood

A literary mood pervaded the A/W 2022 runways – whether American author Ottessa Moshfegh writing a short story to accompany Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s latest Proenza Schouler collection, or at Valentino, a 40-page pink-hued invite created in collaboration with cult Generation X author Douglas Coupland, there was a distinct sense that reading was the activity du jour this season. Released today on World Poetry Day, the latter house’s new series ‘Narratives II’ continues this literary project, inviting some of the world’s most celebrated authors to submit an original piece of writing which is then laid out into colourful text-only campaign images, evoking – as Valentino describes – ‘a polyphonic conversation, a common quest of building a multi-vocal community’. The 17 participants range across genres and countries, and include Amia Srinivasan, André Aciman, David Sedaris, Leïla Slimani, Michael Cunningham, Murathan Mungan and Mieko Kawakami, among others. Coupland also returns with an extract titled ‘Unopened Mail’. Valentino Narratives II (Douglas Coupland) The loose theme of the project is love ‘in all its forms and meanings’, with each short extract spanning various mediums – some are brief aphorisms, like Slimani’s ‘we all die unknown, but if we have loved, if we have devoted our hearts to another, even for a moment, our lives have counted’, others miniature short stories or fragments of poems, others simply surreal gatherings of words. Valentino said it hoped each writer would ‘experiment in freedom of genre’. Alongside the campaign, the house will also continue to support independent bookstores in association with Emma Roberts and Karah Preiss’ book club Belletrist, from McNally Jackson Books to Brooklyn’s Café Con Libros – a project first started in the original Narratives campaign, which launched in April of last year (Valentino cites ‘a proactive approach to “giving back” to the community, and the places where literature dwells’). The campaign itself will appear papered across the streets of Soho, New York, as well as in other cities around the world. The Narratives series continues an ongoing and ever-expanding link between Valentino and the literary world, which first began in 2018. In the years since, projects have included Valentino On Love, featuring contributions from Mustafa The Poet, Greta Bellamacina and Yrsa Daley-Ward, a scholarship for new writers in collaboration with novelist Tomi Adeyemi, and a 2020 campaign by photographer Liz Johnson Artur, accompanied by original words from Bernardine Evaristo, the Booker Prize-winning author of Girl, Woman, Other. §
http://dlvr.it/SM5tn3

The brutalist designs of Berlin-based studio Vaust

Vaust’s Joern Scheipers and David Kosock do not want to be known as the ‘Berlin marble guys’. ‘Berlin aggregate concrete guys’ could be OK, since much of their recent work explores the creative potential of the cheap industrial material. But really, trying to come up with any kind of pithy summation for Vaust would be a fruitless endeavour.  Vaust’s ‘Total Exposure’ collection includes Pin, €780, a solid aluminium and moulded concrete tabletop sculpture. Photography: Dominik Odenkirchen The studio, founded in 2018, has never worked within the confines of disciplines: its work so far has spanned interior design for retail spaces, restaurants and private homes, capsule collections of furniture, sculptural art pieces, and creative brand direction. Yet all of these projects are united by a distinctive visual language that the pair have carefully honed over the past four years. It traces its roots to Berlin, where looming brutalist architecture belies a culture pulsating with vibrant eccentricity. The city’s penchant for weighty, monolithic forms and unexpected juxtapositions are reflected in Vaust’s work, which often blends blocks of rough quarried stone with polished pieces of metal and glass.  Vaust’s recent project, ‘Total Exposure’, is a case in point, defined by simple, solid forms drawn directly from Berlin’s brutalist architecture. The seven-piece collection, which includes functional side tables and floor vases alongside purely decorative tabletop and floor sculptures, combine the roughly hewn, washed aggregate concrete commonly used in the city’s Cold War-era buildings with shiny brushed aluminium.  Interior design for JIGI Poke in Berlin. Photography: Robert Rieger Aggregate concrete was a common fixture in Germany in the 1980s. ‘When you think back on the buildings you were confronted with during your school days, there was a lot of this washed aggregate concrete,’ says Kosock. ‘It’s a typical German thing for cheapish architecture that we saw a lot of in our youth.’ Perhaps because of its ubiquity, aggregate concrete has fallen out of favour in recent years, and concurrently has fallen into Vaust’s work. ‘When we decided to go for aggregate concrete, we couldn’t deny the fact that no one was using it and most people hate it by now,’ says Scheipers. ‘It’s a material that you won’t find in a contemporary context anymore.’  Vaust has long been interested in the secret histories imbued within materials. Its Berlin Perceptions sculptures, which won a Wallpaper* Design Award in 2020, are a precursor of this, using stacked washers of different materials to evoke a particular moment in Berlin’s varied history. For instance, Berlin Perceptions I tells the story of the city’s opulent 18th century through a combination of lacquered ivory, oak remains of the old Berliner Stadtschloss palace, leather and grey glass discs stacked on a brass base. Meanwhile, Berlin Perceptions II combines polished stainless steel, black marble, latex and foam to represent the spirited hedonism of the city’s nightclubs.  A piece from the Berlin Perceptions sculptures series Aggregate concrete allows Vaust to tell stories in a similar way, since the gravel used to create the final mixture varies according to geography. ‘So this surface looks different in different areas of the world,’ explains Kosock. ‘We thought it was really interesting that if you have washed aggregate concrete in Munich, it’s different than in Berlin, or in Stuttgart. So we thought, why not take a deep dive into this whole recipe thing?’ The studio’s upcoming retail space project on Schulstrasse, Stuttgart, is intended as a showcase for various brands and the duo were given carte blanche to design its layout and interiors. The stripped-down space features stands filled with black granite, as well as Vaust’s signature hunks of rough stone – this time made from Styrofoam and painted with a special trompe l’oeil technique. ‘We wanted to create a retail canvas for all kinds of products,’ says Scheipers. ‘The whole structure of the store can be broken down to arrange any kind of floor plan.’ The end result is nothing less than a ‘brutalist diamond’. Next, the pair wants to bring the creative potential of concrete to new extremes. ‘How cool would it be to have an interior project where the whole floor is weathered aluminium or aggregate concrete?’ says Kosock. ‘We’re just waiting for the one client that is perfect for that idea.’ Any takers? § Table from the Total Exposure series, €2.300,00. Photography: Dominik Odenkirchen Vaust’s design for a store in Stuttgart features stainless steel stands, display cases filled with black granite, and hunks of rough ‘stone’ made of Styrofoam. Photography: Victor Brigola Detail of the Vaust-designed Berlin restaurant Rosenthaler 69, a project inspired by the 1907 photograph of a Hawaiian fisherman sitting on a rock. Photography: Robert Rieger Details of the Stuttgart store interior. Photography: Victor Brigola
http://dlvr.it/SM4mc3

Miami residence on Biscayne Bay is the perfect Florida home

Shelter is a contemporary Miami residence set within the lush tropical vegetation of Florida, as much ‘of its place’ as it could be. The private home is an elegant blend of indoor and outdoor areas, and native greenery, bringing the owners at one with nature at every turn – not only through its gardens, but also high ceilings, large openings and paved terraces that allow the light to travel and the eye to wander. Created by Strang Design and Bartoli Architecture on Sunset Island in the middle of Biscayne Bay, it is hard to imagine that such a refined space is a Miami house once created ‘on spec’, for a local developer, Cadus Corporation, without a specific client in mind.  ‘It is remarkably difficult to design on spec because you really have no idea who the ultimate buyer will be,’ architect Max Strang says. ‘It could be a family of five, a retired couple or an active single person. Generally speaking, there’s a tendency for spec homes to be designed to the lowest common denominator. Developers typically want the home to have a very broad appeal. For this particular home we ignored that rule and aimed for a striking design tailored for those who really appreciate architecture. To provide flexibility, we aimed for some of the spaces to work as a bedroom, an office space or a gym. At the end of the day, however, I must admit that I always envision the layout as if I was living there. I think that strategy results in a lot more care given to the project.’ Overcoming the brief’s difficulties and applying the firm’s signature approach of a site-driven and climate-driven design, Strang and his collaborators composed a home defined by space, light and its series of vertical exterior ‘fins’, which not only ‘serve a structural role, they also provide protection from Florida’s sun and privacy for the occupants’, he explains.  The project’s co-author, Bartoli Architecture, took on the interior design once the property got sold to a private client. The firm tailored Strang Design’s concept to the new owner’s needs, through an elegant interior composition that is part minimalist architecture, part warm, art-filled contemporary family home. ‘This project was exciting because it provided my firm with the opportunity to bring new light to another architect’s design,’ says founder Alain Bartoli. ‘I respect the work of Max Strang (Strang Design) so this was an opportunity to work on a great spec home. The project was special to me because I was able to work with great clients who understood the value of the existing spec design and allowed me to carefully redesign it to make it their own.’ Containing five bedrooms, six bathrooms and a variety of living spaces over two generous floors, this Miami residence is glamorous, yet understated, allowing the strong local sunlight and surrounding nature to steal the spotlight. ‘The house is connected to the sky and the outdoors,’ Bartoli adds.  ‘This is a home that allows you to feel like you are outside. The rooms are flooded with natural light and views to the landscape that envelops the home. From almost every interior space you can look out across the pool and terrace. It feels like a resort. It feels like an oasis. In my opinion, that’s what makes it very “Miami”,’ says Strang. §
http://dlvr.it/SM4Hsr

On your marks and get ready for Bremont and Williams Racing’s new watch

British watch brand Bremont has put the accelerator on its automotive associations with a new watch produced in partnership with Williams Racing. The Bremont WR-22 draws on the links between the two brands for a watch that encapsulates sporty design codes. ‘The partnership with Williams is very natural,’ says Bremont co-founder Giles English. ‘They are a brilliant, innovative team with a wonderful history and we share many of the same values and ambitions. Technically we are very closely aligned using the same CNC-milling machines to manufacture parts, and many of our machinists actually come from the automotive and F1 industry, so we are fortunate to have that shared skillset. We also have exciting ambitions to machine parts for one another and establish an apprentice scheme between our businesses.’ The new watch weaves Williams’ design identity throughout, with the blue and white hues of its colour palette making a contemporary foil for the retro accents of the otherwise cleanly legible dial. The branding itself is kept to a minimum, restrained to the custom rotor, which is inspired by a car wheel rim and embellished with the Williams logo. ‘The design of the new WR-22 features the design codes of both of our brands. It is immediately recognisable as a Bremont Chrono, showcasing our passion for cars through the technical features, retro-racing-inspired sub-dials and Alcantara strap, whilst incorporating the Williams design codes and colour scheme,’ English adds. Special editions of the watch also come with a Race Day experience: the Bremont Williams Racing Box Set, limited to 45 pieces, contains a pair of racing-inspired watches and a Williams Racing Formula One experience. ‘Rather specially, each of the watches comes with a historic Williams Racing wheel nut too, as certified by Williams themselves,’ English says. §  
http://dlvr.it/SM4HmG

duminică, 20 martie 2022

Vegan makeup brands for plant-based beauty

Converting to a vegan make-up regime is a sound choice for anyone, no matter your dietary preferences. It’s an easy way to avoid the dubious animal-derived ingredients hidden in some non-vegan make-up products, such as squalene, a shark liver oil often found in lip balms, and shellac, which is often made from lac bugs and used in nail polishes. For those making the switch to plant-based formulations, we share the best designs for building a vegan make-up bag below. While you’re at it, why not extend your cosmetic veganism to your skincare regime too with our edit of design-minded vegan skincare brands.   Brow kit by  19/99’s multipurpose colour pencils and gloss  19/99’s colour sticks are highly pigmented, multipurpose pencils that can be used as a precision eyeliner and lipliner, or blended into a lipstick or eyeshadow. The vegan pencils come in a range of neutral shades as well as three more vibrant colours – cobalt blue Wasser, hot pink Rozsa, and a fiery orange called Meleg.  19/99’s mission is to narrow the generational beauty gap by creating playful cosmetics that are marketed to women of all ages. It’s a noble, and much needed, aim in a largely youth-obsessed beauty industry, and a message that is buttressed by the brand’s strong visual identity and inventive product range.  When using the colour sticks, we recommend smudging Wasser or Rozsa over the eyelids as a shadow, and then coating in the brand’s High-Shine Gloss for colourful, vinyl eyes that are high-impact but quick to apply.  1999beauty.com Tower 28’s buildable cream bronzer  Inspired by Californian sunsets, Tower 28’s Bronzino bronzers come in 5 cream shades that range from the light bronze of ’Sun Coast’ to the deep bronze of ‘Pacific Coast.’ We recommend experimenting with a variety of shades, applying them to the typical bronzing areas- temples, cheeks, nose, and chin- as well as eyes and lips. The easy build-ability of the shades means they can be used to create everything from a light glimmer to a deep glow on any area of the face.  tower28beauty.com Lashify’s lightweight fake lashes Lashify’s artificial lashes are made from the brand’s patented ’Gossamer’ material. This revolutionary form of artificial silk is so lightweight you hardly feel it on lids, making it a welcomed vegan and cruelty-free alternative to mink lashes.  Even fake eyelash novices will find the application process easy with the brand’s curved application tweezer and non-sticky adhesive glue. Once applied the lashes can last 2-3 days.  We recommend playing with colours beyond the typical black. We featured Lashify’s sliver lashes in our March 2020 beauty story, while lavender and red are other favourites.  lashify.com Kosas’ painterly blush and highlighter Kosas’ vegan cream blush and highlighter can be applied to the skin in the same way oil paint is applied to a canvas – it can be built up for more intense pigmentation or mixed with a few drops of face oil for a more subtle, natural finish. Whether painting on a pronounced Frans Hals-esque flush or channelling the subtle rosiness of a Manet, artists and amateurs alike can easily experiment with the glide-on cream for any look. Even better is the fact that Kosas’ products are designed to improve skin, making for a natural, as well as cosmetic, glow. The blush is, of course, vegan and is formulated with jojoba seed oil to calm and balance skin, as well as vitamin-packed rosehip seed oil. kosas.com Brow kit by Refy  Refy’s vegan brow collection is an effective toolkit for achieving slightly enhanced, natural looking brows or a bold, ultra-feathered look. The three products- including a brush, pomade, and pencil, allow you to shape, set, and colour brows according your desired intensity.  selfridges.com J.Hannah’s artist-inspired nail polishes  The colours of J.Hannah’s polishes are inspired by artists’ palettes and natural landscapes, making them some of the most inventive nail shades we’ve come across. ‘Hepworth’ is an elmwood brown that references the material often used by the famous sculptor. ‘Ghost Ranch’ is a terracotta shade similar to the hues of Arizona’s Red Rocks, while ‘Eames’ is a lime green inspired by the fabric of a midcentury modern chair. The rest of the line includes a range of similarly inspired shades, including a recent collaboration with New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.  jhannahjewelry.com La Bouche Rouge’s 100 per cent plastic-free mascara ‘I have designed these products with two key focuses,’ La Bouche Rouge co-founder Nicolas Gerlier told Wallpaper* ahead of his brand’s new make-up launch. ‘The first is to create something perfect, something extremely precise like an Apple design… the second is to stay sustainable in every part of what we do.’ The brand has certainly achieved both those aims in its latest cosmetic line, which is vegan and designed to be completely plastic-free. Its mascara is a particularly remarkable feat of cosmetic product design, with a glass wand and application brush made of plastic-free castor plant fibre. laboucherougeparis.com Hourglass’ high-pigment foundation  Luxury brand Hourglass cosmetics has pledged to be 100 per cent vegan by the end of 2021, and one of its first vegan offerings is its Seemless Finish Liquid Foundation. The brand’s unique formula of coated pigments means that only half a pump is required for even-toned skin, making it a preferable option for those worried about a decrease in effectiveness when switching to vegan products.  hourglasscosmetics.com Highr’s on-the-go lipsticks It’s an old beauty rumour that regular lipstick wearers inadvertently ingest pounds of the product over the course of a lifetime. True or not, it makes sense that the products you put on your body should be as good for you as the food you put in it. With that in mind, Highr has created a range of vegan, cruelty-free lipsticks that forego commonly used lipstick ingredients like lanolin, a fat derived from sheep wool, or carmine, a pigment made of ground insects. Instead, the lipsticks are made from a blend of natural oils and butters, enhanced by the addition of hyaluronic filling microspheres that plump the lip, organic rosehip oil for promoting collagen production, and dragon’s blood oil to repair and nourish. Our favourite shade is Chateau, a 1990s matte muddy-pink, which can be applied anywhere using the tube’s convenient built-in mini mirror. highrcollective.com    
http://dlvr.it/SM2RBD

Art and light rule in this Pacific Palisades house

There’s a secret behind certain houses in Pacific Palisades: the kind of heartstopping ocean views that make all the adjacent palm trees, pools and velveteen lawns seem to fade to grey. One such Pacific Palisades house, a riff on a Norman-style villa, has a sober limestone façade beneath a pitched metal roof, and it raises few eyebrows from the street. It’s a new build by Johnston Marklee, the celebrated LA firm founded in 1998 by architects Sharon Johnston and Mark Lee. Known for their private houses, often reclusive mysteries on the outside and shapeshifting wonders within, Johnston and Lee have also made their mark with the Menil Drawing Institute in Houston, designed for the Menil Collection and opened in 2018. ‘Dominique de Menil was famous for wearing her fur jacket with the outside in, so no one would see the fur,’ Lee says, laughing, of the oil heiress who established the pioneering art museum with her husband John. That a patron of such high calibre could be so low-key pleases him: her approach ‘has a certain normalcy on the outside that doesn’t betray something exciting inside – I think this is also what we’re trying to capture’, he adds. This image and below, a spherical skylight illuminates the foyer, where Untitled, 2005, by León Ferrari hangs and Dirty South, 2016, by Simone Leigh sits on a custom plinth. Above the Martino Gamper settee, commissioned specifically for the space, hangs Lesson One, 1965, by Frederick Hammersley. Jackie II, 1966, by Andy Warhol is on the wall leading to the private gallery, which houses a Directoire bergère, as well as a seven-sided ottoman replicated from a design by Charles James at the home of Dominique and John de Menil, alongside Four Corners, 2011, by Robert Irwin and Untitled, 1966, by John McCracken The duality perfectly applies to the new four-bedroom, 8,573 sq ft house Johnston Marklee has designed in the Palisades. ‘On clear days, we can see the sand on the beach in Santa Monica,’ says Clare Casademont, who purchased its plot with her husband, Houston financier Michael Metz, in 2010, following an extended LA holiday. It was only in 2013 that they decided to replace the nondescript stucco house on the site with a custom design by Johnston Marklee. They had met the architecture studio through the Menil Collection, where Casademont is a trustee. And once they shared their brief – a relaxed second home for family, a place for art and antiques – the architects suggested the couple look up their friend Pamela Shamshiri, of the LA-based interior design firm Studio Shamshiri, whose layered, historically-informed work is widely known and revered for its sensuality and elegance (also see its renovation of Ledgewood, a 1961 Robert Kennard house in the Hollywood Hills). With that, the team was complete. Casedemont and Metz have been art lovers for 30 years, and their tastes range from perception-altering contemporary sculpture by Simone Leigh, Robert Irwin, Olafur Eliasson and Rosemarie Trockel to paintings by Deborah Roberts and Yayoi Kusama and intimate works on paper. Their architects anticipated a few challenges. Above and below, at the top of the stairs leading to the study, Glass Horizon (hexagon), 2014, by Doug Aitken is paired with a René Herbst armchair. Within the study, Aitken’s work is seen alongside a collection of smaller artworks hung salon-style. A curved Charlotte Perriand desk faces towards the view of the canyon with a velvet brown Jean Pascaud French lounge chair. The furnishings are placed on a golden silk rug custom-made by Christopher Farr ‘Southern California is about views and light,’ says Johnston. ‘The clients wanted that, but they have a great art collection – and protecting the art was important.’ Johnston Marklee designed deep skylights, sculptural in their own right, to funnel sun down into the core of the bow-shaped house without glancing off walls. Behind a generous covered porch, sliding doors open to the Pacific while clerestory windows filter the light. For the architects, one of the pleasures of the project was shaping a floorplan that was equally open and protected, defining rooms but not in an airless, episodic way. Seeing through from one space to another was the idea. ‘It was a great opportunity to have the design, art and architecture synergise,’ Johnston says. ‘And I know Pam really strived for that, too.’  Early on, Casademont took Shamshiri to see the Houston home of the de Menils, designed for them by Philip Johnson in 1950. It was decorated by the couturier Charles James, who created voluptuous interiors that were anything but fur-side in – imagine Demna Gvasalia taking on a John Pawson house today. The house became ‘a spiritual motivation’, says Casademont. ‘It’s not that we were trying to duplicate what Philip Johnson did in that house for Mrs de Menil – it’s that they lived casually with great art.’ The living room features custom-designed sofas in Fortuny fabric, a pair of Pierre Jeanneret chairs and a Vincenzo De Cotiis brass and fibreglass coffee table. On the walls hang Untitled (Blue), 2014, by Kim McCarty, Column Painting #16, 2004, by Robert Mangold, and Yellow House, 2008, by Alex Katz While allowing that art is still the first thing you should see, Shamshiri and her artistic director Taska Cleveland aimed to domesticate it without lessening its impact. Beside Robert Rauschenberg’s rough-edged cardboard collage in the dining room, for instance, a panelled bar looks like the height of civilisation. A geometric Jenny Holzer canvas in the private gallery floats at the shoulder of a plump Directoire bergère and a seven-sided ottoman, reproduced from a James design in the de Menil living room. Shamshiri also had her eye on contemporary works by Vincenzo De Cotiis, Rogan Gregory, Jeff Zimmerman and others that would stand their ground alongside the art while evoking some of the connoisseurship of the de Menils, who, in the early 1950s, entertained the likes of Max Ernst and René Magritte in their glass-walled box. Above and below, in the dining room, a Jeff Zimmerman light hangs above a Jorge Zalszupin dining table and chairs by Kaare Klint, while Romance, 1980, by Ed Ruscha and Cardbird III, 1971, by Robert Rauschenberg hang on the wall  More than anything, Shamshiri recalls, ‘Clare and Michael wanted the house to be cosy. We really pushed for colour and texture – I thought the best way to achieve that mood would be in a more painterly way, rather than just having more things. It became an exercise of placing these eclectic objects within the pools of light, and introducing colour through that.’ David Hutchinson collages hang above glasses in the dining room’s bar A curving settee by Martino Gamper in the entry hall makes her point, glowing with citrine brilliance beneath a whorled skylight. A yolk-yellow stool in Casademont’s dressing room echoes the round oculus above it. Beside a hall window, an aloe-green René Herbst armchair basks next to Doug Aitken’s mirror-faceted wall sculpture, both silhouetted against walls painted in Farrow & Ball’s Pavilion Gray. The silvery hue works particularly well on the second floor, where prints and drawings are the focus. In the living room, Unfired Clay Torso, 2014-15, by Mark Manders sits on a plinth next to an antique stool, a family heirloom of the clients In December 2021, the couple finally moved in. Despite the project’s nine-year timeline, Shamshiri finds new beauty in it all the time. ‘Sharon and Mark’s work is like a folly,’ she says. ‘It’s so heart-opening and enlightening – that sense of wonderment happens immediately. I was really humbled by both the art and the architecture.’ She’s come to see the house as a lesson in knowing ‘when to be quiet, to bow down to something that’s more important in the room’. For Johnston and Lee, the project was another chance to dismantle conventional thinking about space and light, inside and outside. And to polish up their stories. ‘There’s a quote we really like from Andy Warhol about Studio 54,’ Lee says, smiling. ‘“It’s a dictatorship at the door and a democracy inside.” We like that idea.’ § In the den is a Rogan Gregory coffee table, an Afra and Tobia Scarpa marble bookcase, a Pablo Picasso vase (Yan Face, Madoura, 1963) and an Alexander Calder stabile (Quatre Blancs, 1976), alongside Leda, 1925, by Constantin Brâncuşi, Untitled (Portrait of Dr J Gordin Kaplan), c.1950, by Alice Neel, Great Nude, 2008, and Bulletproof, 2007, both by Rosemarie Trockel, and Hefty, 2005, by Ken Price Untitled (Grey), 1972-73, by Gerhard Richter hangs above a Gustavian console, on which sits an antique Dirk van Erp dish and Still Life, 2020, by Anat Shiftan In the bedroom hangs Bastard IVXVI and Bastard VIXVI, 2016, by Imi Knoebel, and Woman No.14, 1990, by John Wesley alongside an antique Erik Chambert bench  In the gallery hangs Yellow, 2016, by Deborah Roberts. Two antique French chairs flank an ottoman, which was replicated from the home of Dominique and John de Menil A black lacquer door with a Nanz oversized knob provides entry to the vestibule, where Simone Leigh’s Dirty South, 2016, sits on its custom plinth The bathroom’s custom-patinated steel wall and curved stone tub with black Vola fixtures The curved exterior looks over a pool with loungers, and a canyon and ocean view. A custom travertine dining table with James Perse director’s chairs sit just off the kitchen. An additional seating area is directly off the clients’ study  
http://dlvr.it/SM24bc

All-season tent design inspired by history of Icelandic shelters

Any preparations to visit Iceland would not be complete without gear from the country’s heritage outerwear brand, 66 North. Originally founded in 1926 to clothe fishermen, as well as search and rescue teams in the North Atlantic, 66 North’s array of cold weather staples, which range from wool base layers to waterproof jackets, have become essential for combating Iceland’s extreme climate. Tent design by 66 North and Heimplanet Embracing the extreme takes on new meaning with 66 North’s latest release – a tent made in collaboration with the German camping gear innovator, Heimplanet, marking its first foray outside of clothing. Its geodesic dome structure is a signature feature of Heimplanet’s existing The Cave tent. Boasting an inflatable framework and constructed with ten crossing points, the tent’s reinforced structure is matched by high-quality weatherproof materials to stand up against wind, snow and rain. The collaborative iteration with 66 North showcases a bright orange hue – a reference to traditional emergency shelters, located all over Iceland, as well as a larger size to contain up to four people. A single pump easily inflates the spacious tent in under a minute, which means setting up base camp is more pain-free in all four seasons for both adventurists and nature lovers alike. Photographer and outdoorsman Benjamin Hardman, who took these images, was actively involved in the development of this collaboration. He says, ‘With Iceland being home to some truly unrelenting weather that can hit you like a tonne of bricks without a moment’s notice, having strong and reliable equipment is key. With this in mind, I had a dream to build an Icelandic weatherproof edition of The Cave. In other countries, it can take a whole year to experience all four seasons, but here you can see them all within one day. With a four-season Cave, fitted out with a fully weatherproof construction, a larger floor-plan for my camera gear, and space for a team of two or three people, there is potential to elevate the highland camping experience even further.’ He continues, ‘Brainstorming with the team at 66°North, we spent some time looking into the history of shelters in Iceland. With storms so powerful that buildings can literally be shifted from their foundations, storm shelters are an absolute must here, especially in remote locations around the country. We realised a common thread amongst the shelters: their eye-catching orange exterior. There is a special one that sits on the shores of Hornvík in the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. It stands in strong contrast to the sweeping valley of green summer hues and stark white snow of the winter. No matter the season, you’ll always find it.’ § Watch: the all-seasons tent by 66 North and Heimplanet    
http://dlvr.it/SM1mFj

Holy orders: new Singapore restaurant opens in 19th-century chapel

Julien Royer is descended from four generations of hardy French farmers and cooks. Which is why the Cantal-born, Singapore-based chef could not have picked a more perfect, bucolic spot to open Claudine – his sophomore restaurant – than the bijou, late 19th-century Ebenezer Chapel in Dempsey Hill’s leafy grounds. Dempsey Hill is a decommissioned colonial military barracks cosseted by tropical jungle, and the chapel had, over the years, served as a school for children of the British military and a place of worship (first for the then colony’s Roman Catholics and later the Presbyterians) before it was converted in 2007 into a restaurant.   Claudine: new Singapore restaurant designed by Nice Projects In the midst of the pandemic, London-based interior designers Nice Projects orchestrated, mostly from afar, a tip-to-toe refurbishment of the chapel, stripping everything down to the original mosaic floor tiling, curlicued window grilles and the stone-cut holy water font. Cleaned up and repointed, these features now add a charming historical palimpsest to the restaurant, and, says Sacha Leong, Nice Project’s co-founder and project lead, ‘give a special sense of the character and context of the original architecture’. To give the lofty space a more human scale, the studio dropped a white 15m-long cylindrical paper lantern by Santa & Cole from the rust-red ceiling and dressed the room with bespoke banquettes swathed in green velvet and sand-hued linen, and bistro chairs clad in vegetable-tanned leather. Wrapped around the restaurant are glass wall panels designed by local florists This Humid House to encase locally harvested dried pressed grass. ‘Our intention was to reference the greenery that surrounds the restaurant,’ says Leong. This concern for the natural setting is reflected in the kitchen, where Royer and his executive chef Julien Mercier channel the nostalgic rustic flavour memories of Royer’s childhood in the countryside.  And so, whilst Royer’s first restaurant Odette (winner of Best New Restaurant in the Wallpaper* Design Awards 2017) – which, incidentally, Nice Projects is currently refurbishing – is a local byword for refined contemporary French cuisine, Claudine sends out zhooshed-up Franco country fare, such as a terrine of kurobuta, an intensely flavoured Cevennes onion soup paired with Comte cheese toast, and a crisp shell of vol-au-vent stuffed with a fragrant stew of cockscomb, morel and sweetbreads. §
http://dlvr.it/SM1mC5

sâmbătă, 19 martie 2022

The Stax curates Sotheby’s Palm Beach all-female jewellery sale

Lifelong jewellery fans, the two friends and co-founders behind The Stax Advisory, Victoria Lampley Berens and Laurel Pantin, set up their full-service jewellery consultancy in Spring 2021, specialising in sourcing spectacular vintage pieces. Lampley Berens has a background in PR and design, and inherited her late mother’s love of vintage bijoux, while Pantin is a respected fashion and jewellery editor, with a seasoned eye for identifying trends and exceptional pieces.  Sotheby’s senior vice president and senior specialist of private sales at Sotheby’s, David Rothschild, reached out when he spotted one of The Stax’s early Instagram posts, and the collaboration quickly evolved, with The Stax curating an all-female jewellery exhibition and sale at Sotheby’s Palm Beach, due to take place 4 – 10 April 2022. ‘It’s a totally serendipitous twist of fate – my late mother lived in Palm Beach for a time, and she loved jewellery. I wanted to start this business in honour of her, so everything about this partnership feels right,’ says Lampley Berens, who lost her mother to cancer five years ago. Nina Runsdorf’s diamond bracelet in 18ct yellow gold with 3.13ct light yellow cushion cut diamond, $98,500 The exhibition will include jewels from Alice Cicolini, Carolina Bucci, Charlotte Chesnais, Ming, Nina Runsdorf, Prounis, amongst others, mixing heritage and antique jewellery with modern and contemporary pieces. ‘We wanted to merge the glamour and nostalgia of the Slim Aarons Palm Beach world with the contemporary new-wave of international clientele and residents who have flocked to [the area],’ says Lampley Berens of the curation. Statement pieces with bright stones, as well as colourful earrings, pinky rings, bold chains, and sculptural rings have been particularly popular.  Anabela Chan’s ‘Citrus Neptuna’ earrings, in recycled aluminium, 18ct gold and rhodium vermeil, with simulated gemstones of orange citrines, champagne diamonds, apple green tourmalines, yellow sapphires and lemon quartz, $2,835 With the exhibition intentionally timed ahead of US Mother’s Day (on 8 May), Lampley Berens explains, ‘A major driving factor in our curation was bringing together a powerful group of women, all highly esteemed fine jewellery designers, and ensuring a portion of the proceeds from the sale benefit a cause close to my heart. We partnered with Mother Lovers, founded by my dear friend Paula Goldstein, a non-profit organisation raising awareness about the maternal health crisis.’ The charity will focus its next grant-making cycle on supporting educational opportunities and funds for midwives, and the advancement of access to prenatal care. § Double laurel cuff with diamonds in yellow gold by Prounis, $32,000 Pink morganite ‘Ribbon Ring’ in 18ct gold by Charlotte Chesnais, $15,000
http://dlvr.it/SM1Hzt

Five new sports cars from iconic makers – a final flourish for the supercar?

What will tomorrow’s high-end sports cars look like? It’s a question that must trouble the chief executives of the big names in high performance, as not only are they having to re-jig their technology, but the entire raison d’être of the ultra-fast road car is increasingly being called into question. Not that you’d know it from this quintet of supercars, all of which represent the pinnacle of many years of evolution. Ultimately, every conceivable ethos and approach is represented here, as well as engines ranging from 4-cylinders right through to 12, with a mix of hybrid power and old-fashioned pure combustion.  Five new sports cars by iconic makers Lotus Emira Lotus Emira, from £59,995 (V6 First Edition, £75,995), lotuscars.com With the arrival of its first SUV looming, Lotus’s future is set to look very different to its past. Founded in 1948, the company was born out of motor racing and has spent much of its 74-year history lurching between excellent products and financial insecurity. Now owned by Geely (and therefore sitting in the same stable as Volvo and Polestar), Lotus is on the brink of a revolution. This car, the Emira, is its final dalliance with the old-fashioned internal combustion engine. Available with both a high-powered 4-cylinder and Lotus’s venerable V6, the Emira promises a step-change in usability and quality, whilst still retaining the lightweight ethos that underpins the brand. You’ll notice that the Emira is substantially more affordable than the other cars on this page, not least because Lotus has never really seen itself as a rival for high-end names like Aston Martin and Ferrari. That will all change with the imminent arrival of the Emira’s bigger sibling, the all-electric Evija, which catapults the company into hypercar territory (it has a list price of over £2m). For now, the Emira promises to continue a strong tradition of affordable sports machines, with a laser-like focus on dynamics and driving fun.  Maserati MC20  Maserati MC20, from £187,230, maserati.com Maserati’s MC20 is a big gamble that’s been a long time coming. The core design of this mid-engined supercar takes the Italian marque back into a market sector it hasn’t occupied since the 1970s, when its Bora model was a true Ferrari rival. There have been limited runs of specialist machinery since then, but the MC20 brings Maserati back into true supercar territory. The game has moved on somewhat since the brutish era of 1970s car design and engineering, but the MC20 should be able to keep up. With a new V6 at its heart, the carbon fibre-swathed machine will take the fight to Ferrari. One of the best-looking designs to come out of the company’s Centro Stile in decades, it has butterfly doors that tick the box marked ‘supercar’, and a cabrio version will be along soon.  Ferrari 296 GTB Ferrari 296 GTB, from c£230,000, ferrari.com For the aficionado, a new Ferrari is an event to be celebrated. Announced last year but just starting to roll out around the world, the 296 GTB is the latest iteration of a long line of mid-engined two-seaters from Maranello. With each new model, the technology gets a little bit more intense, and so it is with the GTB, which marks the ‘mass production’ debut of Ferrari’s hybrid system, paired with a 3-litre twin-turbo V6. Ferrari’s cockpits are increasingly sophisticated, and the 296 GTB is no different, with a Formula 1-inspired steering wheel containing a whole of controls from driving mode to indicators. The bodywork is one of the company’s most successful recent designs, losing some of the fussy junctions that were starting to creep into the Ferrari design language. Active aerodynamics complement the technical complexity of the hybrid and drive systems, making this one of the most advanced cars the company has ever made. With the forthcoming Purosangue SUV – Ferrari’s first-ever official four-door car – just around the corner, the 296 GTB will have to carry the flag for Ferrari’s purist sportscar image. McLaren Artura McLaren Artura, from £185,500, cars.mclaren.com Not to be outdone, Ferrari’s longstanding rival, on and off the track, has announced its own V6 hybrid supercar. The all-new McLaren Artura should start to ship in 2022. Like Ferrari, it represents the distillation of ultra-high-end hybrid technology created for the company’s limited-edition hypercars into a series production car. McLaren has worked hard to cut weight, and claims the Artura is the lightest in its class. The hybrid set-up allows for a modest EV-only range, as well as using electric-only power to replace the reverse gear (another weight-saving tactic). There’s also impressive fuel efficiency, a rare quality in this traditionally rather profligate category. Unlike most mid-engined cars, McLarens have usually offered exceptional visibility and ease of everyday use, and the Artura looks set to continue that trend.  Aston Martin V12 Vantage  Aston Martin V12 Vantage, sold out, astonmartin.com Finally, an old school machine that turns on the brutish charm instead of relying on technological trickery. Aston Martin is slightly behind its rivals when it comes to building mid-engined production cars, so in the meantime, it’s crammed its bespoke 5.2-litre V12 into the relatively compact Vantage frame – a major engineering feat. As well as addressing those who grumbled about the Vantage’s Mercedes-AMG-sourced V8 engine, the new V12 Vantage could well be the final appearance of this venerable engine as every manufacturer looks to downsize their output. The Vantage itself is more than capable of coping with the impressive power on tap. The muscular body has been widened and additional aerodynamics added, making this fearsome machine more akin to the Vantage’s GTE racing siblings than the refined but supremely capable ‘regular’ V8 Vantage. §
http://dlvr.it/SM02Z0

Buy art and design to support Ukraine: the sales and auctions happening now

Galvanised by the mounting human tragedy of the war in Ukraine, many in the creative world have felt compelled to offer help in the best way they know how: harnessing their resources and networks to raise money for humanitarian relief organisations by selling art, photography and design to those of us eager to buy it. Among a host of compelling initiatives, here are art and design sales and auctions happening now in aid of the Ukraine relief effort. Art 4 Ukraine Discipline: photography Ends: 23 March 2022 Christopher Pugmire, Fitness, 2021, Odessa, part of the Dear Lanzheron series. © Christopher Pugmire Ukrainian and international art photographers including Martin Parr, Elena Subach, Niels Ackermann, Sasha Kurmaz, Vanessa Winship, William Keo, Ira Lupa, Justyna Mielnikiewicz and many more have donated works for sale. All prints cost £100, including delivery, and profits will be split between two charities, Choose Love and War Child, to use on programmes assisting Ukrainian families and children affected by the conflict. Production is by Theprintspace, a carbon-neutral fine art printing service.  art4ukraine.com Ooze Papers Discipline: photography Ends: 24 March 2022 Benjamin Schmuck, Fruits Here’s your chance to snap up work by photographers such as Catherine Hyland, Benjamin Schmuck, Luke & Nik (all of whom have shot for Wallpaper*) and many more. A London-based online store selling a curated collection of prints from up-and-coming and established photographers, Oozepaper is holding a print sale from which all profits will be donated to Voices of Children. This foundation is helping affected children and families from all over Ukraine, offering emergency psychological assistance, and helping in the evacuation process. Prints are priced £50.  oozepapers.com/voices-charity-sale Pictures for Purpose Discipline: photography Ends: 24 March 2022 Nadav Kander, Mont Saint-Michel, Normandy, France, 2022. © Nadav Kander Nadav Kander is just one of the artists featured in a print-sale fundraiser for Ukraine, organised by Pictures for Purpose, a platform launched in 2020 to raise awareness and funds for urgent causes through the medium of photography. Says Kander of his piece, Mont Saint-Michel, Normandy, France, 2022, ​​‘My work, in order to be successful in my eyes, needs to reveal and conceal at the same time. I put humankind at the centre of any work I produce, as well as the human conditions that are universal to us. If I don’t show people in the frame, their presence is felt. It feels as if my work is strung together by an invisible thread, as I revisit themes again and again with varying approaches. This photograph was taken in Northern France in 2002, in a marshland that floods with the tides. It looks toward Mont Saint-Michel, which you can only just see shrouded in mist.’  The sale for Ukraine is Pictures for Purpose’s third edition, and is raising funds for World Central Kitchen, which provides fresh meals to refugees as well as those who remain in the country. The platform also offers artists the option of receiving 25 per cent of the proceeds from the sale of their work – perhaps a lifeline for Ukrainian photographers, whether they have fled violence or remained. picturesforpurpose.org A Print for Ukraine Discipline: architectural photography Ends: 27 March 2022 Phillip Reed, Untitled, 2016. © Phillip Reed The Mass Collective, a group of architectural photographers mostly based in London, is holding a sale of some of its most popular – yet affordable – prints to help raise funds for those affected by the ongoing humanitarian crisis in Ukraine by supporting the British Red Cross emergency appeal. ‘What’s currently happening is a major concern for all of us, and through this initiative we want to bring together our community and charitably donate our prints to raise funds for the British Red Cross in Ukraine. We trust our photography can raise a substantial amount to contribute to all the generous donations that are currently being collected to help Ukrainians,’ the Mass Collective’s founding members said in a statement. mass-collective.com International Creatives for Ukraine, led by Marcin Rusak Discipline: photography Ends: 31 March 2022 Top row, from left: ‘Touched’ table lamp by Studio Truly Truly; ‘Osis Block Flat’ table by Llot Llov; and ‘Untitled IV’ from the series ‘Fortune Teller Told Me’ by Sonia Szóstak. Bottom row, from left: ‘Rose Ripple Spine II’ vessel by Julie Nelson; ‘Meteorite Vessel Honey’ by Alexa Lixfeld; and vase from the ‘Clay’ collection by Formafantasma for Bitossi Raising funds for Poland’s Fundacja Ocalenie, Warsaw-based designer Marcin Rusak is making the most of Instagram’s immediacy, auctioning original pieces donated by international designers including Formafantasma, Faye Toogood, Bethan Laura Wood, Max Lamb, Simone Bodmer-Turner and more. instagram.com/marcinrusak/ Neu Workshop Discipline: photography Ends: 31 March 2022 Tania & Roman Buy photographic prints in aid of three carefully chosen initiatives –  Voices of Children, providing psychological and psychosocial support to children; Vostok-SOS, providing assistance to victims of military aggression; and Libereco, specialising in humanitarian aid – in this sale organised by Neu Workshop, a community and non-profit multi-use project, and publishing practice Jetzt, which are financed by Germany-based creative studio, Studio CNP. Prints cost €50 including shipping. Among the photographers featured are Diana Lange, Anton Belinskiy, Mariia Vydrenko, and Tania & Roman. neuworkshop.com/artforukraine Artists at Risk Discipline: art Ends: 30 April 2022 Tacita Dean, detail from Paradise, 2021. © Tacita Dean, 2022 A new solidarity print sale featuring leading artists – among them Nan Goldin, Isaac Julien, Jeremy Deller, Anne Imhof, and Thomas Demand – has been organised by Johannesburg-born artist Adam Broomberg in partnership with Artists at Risk (AR), a non-profit organisation operating at the intersection of human rights and the arts. For the initiative’s first round, each artist has donated a piece of art as an open edition print that will be available to purchase until 30 April 2022 via the Solidarity Prints website. Each edition is priced at €200 per edition, with all proceeds from sales helping to facilitate emergency travel, shelter and financial support to enable affected artists in Ukraine, Belarus, Russia and beyond to find safety. A special edition box containing all 70 prints is available for €14,000.  solidarityprints.artistsatrisk.org Fast Forward Print Sale with Ukrainian female artists Discipline: photography Ends: ongoing Eva Dzhyshyashvili Fast Forward: Women in Photography, a research project based at the UK’s University for the Creative Arts and promoting women in photography worldwide, is using its platform to help Ukrainian female artists raise money for charities working on the ground in Ukraine. Fast Forward is covering the costs of printing and postage. All proceeds from the sale will go directly to smaller charities helping civilians, especially women, children and older people in Ukraine. Charities include Ukrainian Womanity (Zaporizzia), FreeUa (Kramatorsk) and Patriot (Melitopol). The minimum donation per print is £50; editions are limited and vary depending on the image. Participating artists from Ukraine are: Daria Bedernichek, Lubov Chornenka, Oksana Demianec, Adriana Dovha , Eva Dzhyshyashvili, Anneta Gluschenko, Maria Kazvan, Uliana Kocur-Skalacka, Kate Kutsevol, Daria Kuzmina, Daryna Momot, Eugenia Stanishevska, Nalina Vaine, Nadiia Volkova, Polina Zabizhko. fastforward.photography/gallery/ukraine/ §
http://dlvr.it/SLzfl3

The Stax curates Sotheby’s Palm Beach all-female jewellery sale

Lifelong jewellery fans, the two friends and co-founders behind The Stax Advisory, Victoria Lampley Berens and Laurel Pantin, set up their full-service jewellery consultancy in Spring 2021, specialising in sourcing spectacular vintage pieces. Lampley Berens has a background in PR and design, and inherited her late mother’s love of vintage bijoux, while Pantin is a respected fashion and jewellery editor, with a seasoned eye for identifying trends and exceptional pieces.  Sotheby’s senior vice president and senior specialist of private sales at Sotheby’s, David Rothschild, reached out when he spotted one of The Stax’s early Instagram posts, and the collaboration quickly evolved, with The Stax curating an all-female jewellery exhibition and sale at Sotheby’s Palm Beach, due to take place 4 – 10 April 2022. ‘It’s a totally serendipitous twist of fate – my late mother lived in Palm Beach for a time, and she loved jewellery. I wanted to start this business in honour of her, so everything about this partnership feels right,’ says Lampley Berens, who lost her mother to cancer five years ago. Nina Runsdorf’s diamond bracelet in 18ct yellow gold with 3.13ct light yellow cushion cut diamond, $98,500 The exhibition will include jewels from Alice Cicolini, Carolina Bucci, Charlotte Chesnais, Ming, Nina Runsdorf, Prounis, amongst others, mixing heritage and antique jewellery with modern and contemporary pieces. ‘We wanted to merge the glamour and nostalgia of the Slim Aarons Palm Beach world with the contemporary new-wave of international clientele and residents who have flocked to [the area],’ says Lampley Berens of the curation. Statement pieces with bright stones, as well as colourful earrings, pinky rings, bold chains, and sculptural rings have been particularly popular.  Anabela Chan’s ‘Citrus Neptuna’ earrings, in recycled aluminium, 18ct gold and rhodium vermeil, with simulated gemstones of orange citrines, champagne diamonds, apple green tourmalines, yellow sapphires and lemon quartz, $2,835 With the exhibition intentionally timed ahead of US Mother’s Day (on 8 May), Lampley Berens explains, ‘A major driving factor in our curation was bringing together a powerful group of women, all highly esteemed fine jewellery designers, and ensuring a portion of the proceeds from the sale benefit a cause close to my heart. We partnered with Mother Lovers, founded by my dear friend Paula Goldstein, a non-profit organisation raising awareness about the maternal health crisis.’ The charity will focus its next grant-making cycle on supporting educational opportunities and funds for midwives, and the advancement of access to prenatal care. § Double laurel cuff with diamonds in yellow gold by Prounis, $32,000 Pink morganite ‘Ribbon Ring’ in 18ct gold by Charlotte Chesnais, $15,000
http://dlvr.it/SLzJPR

South African holiday home opens up to the coastal elements

5 Fin Whale Way is a holiday house, a structure designed to connect its owners with the outdoors as much as possible. The two-storey house is built on a site in the village of Kommetjie, 40km south of Cape Town on the Cape Peninsula. It represents a contemporary interpretation of the Cape cottage vernacular that characterises the region, a South African holiday home style which in turn contained a hefty dose of Victorian seaside architecture with its timber-clad façades and dormer windows.  A South African holiday home by Salt Architects The sprawling ground floor covers a substantial proportion of the triangular site, with a wide terrace acting as a buffer zone between house, pool and garden. Inside there is a large open-plan kitchen and living area, set alongside a slightly more formal dining space, a second terrace, as well as a generous utility area and double garage. A bedroom, bathroom and study complete the space. The upper floor is much smaller, tucked into the pitched roof above the living space. This is home to a spacious principal bedroom suite, complete with a freestanding bath and large dormer windows.  The terrace is the house’s focal point. A deep verandah provides shelter from the sun and rain, while expansive sliding glass windows allow the sitting room to be completely open to the elements. The second terrace off the dining room is a slightly more private space with a fire pit and seating area.  The key design elements are the verandah and terrace, both of which were governed in part by the design guidelines of the neighbourhood, but also by the clients’ desire to live a very outdoor life when they are at the house. Cantilevered 2.5m away from the building edge, the verandah canopy is supported by a substantial stainless steel plate, and contains angled timber louvres that allow winter sun into the house but shade it during the summer.  Other important design elements include a contemporary reinterpretation of the dormer window in the pitched-roofed first floor. The windows contain seats with a north-facing view towards Hout Bay, while the external stainless steel dormer frames contrast with the traditional shutters, which in turn pair with the timber cladding on the exterior.  Numerous details inside and out showcase how hard the Cape Town-based studio has worked to give the impression of an effortless update of vernacular style. The seamless joints and big spans could only be achieved by concealing structure within the house’s clean lines, and by using skilled craftspeople to shape the façade. The result is a contemporary building that respects its surroundings while providing just the right balance of public and private spaces in an idyllic coastal spot. §  
http://dlvr.it/SLzJNL

vineri, 18 martie 2022

‘Fashioning Masculinities’ at the V&A celebrates the art of menswear, past and present

Part way through the V&A’s new menswear exhibition, ‘Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear’, is a 1759 portrait of Richard Milles, a British landowner, politician and botanist by Italian artist Pompeo Batoni. In it, he wears blushing shades of pink, including Batoni’s own fur-lined cerise cape, his hand pointing to a map of Rome. It is a quintessential ‘Grand Tour’ portrait, the artistic souvenirs of the 18th-century phenomenon whereby wealthy young men of means would make their way through Italy, educating themselves in the treasures of classic antiquity. Going home, they would fill their carriages with the spoils of their travels, plaster casts or copies of ancient busts and statues, and clothing, richly fashioned in the colourful, flamboyant European style.  It was this historical moment that provided the starting point for ‘Fashioning Masculinities’, an exhibition that explores the ‘power, artistry and diversity’ of menswear, tracing links between historical and contemporary masculine attire, and is the first of its type at the London institution. Across three galleries – ‘Undressed’, ‘Overdressed’ and ‘Redressed’ – co-curators Claire Wilcox and Rosalind McKever collate over 100 menswear looks, backdropped by a vast array of artworks across various mediums, both owned by the museum and lent from private collections (‘I think what’s unusual about this exhibition is the amount of art in it,’ Wilcox says). The space itself is created in collaboration with Jayden Ali of interdisciplinary practice JA Projects, who last month was announced as one of the designers behind the 2023 British Pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale. Alessandro Michele for Gucci, F/W 2015. Courtesy of Gucci ‘We thought it would be interesting to begin with the Grand Tour, because that was the moment that classical ideals began to permeate into fashion,’ explains Wilcox at a preview of the exhibition. As such, ‘Fashioning Masculinities’ begins with ‘Undressed’, a gallery that explores how these ideals have been both perpetuated and pulled apart by designers in the centuries since. Watched over by the muscular, semi-clad bodies of the Apollo Belvedere and the Farnese Hermes, here in plaster-cast recreations, the curators looked towards the item of clothing most closely linked to the body – underwear. Pieces on display in this first gallery range from historical bloomers and nightshirts to lycra Spanx for men and gender-affirming chest binders by trans-owned company gc2b, alongside underwear-inspired pieces by Jean-Paul Gaultier, A-Cold-Wall* and Craig Green. A series of male nudes, by David Hockney, Zenele Muholi and Isaac Julien, among others, line the room’s walls. ‘There’s this sense of proportion to the first room,’ says Wilcox. ‘It’s about sculpture, and underwear, and how classical ideas in the 18th century idealised the male body. But we also wanted to think about diversity, to have these different shaped mannequins, reflecting the way the masculine body is under scrutiny today. Creating the exhibition, we realised that men’s bodies have been fashioned as much as fashion has been fashioned.’  ‘There have been moments of bravery in men’s clothing, and moments of caution. We’re very fortunate this exhibition coincides with a moment of renaissance’ – Claire Wilcox, co-curator Fashioning Masculinities This linking of past and present, the combining of clothing and artefacts from various eras in thematic blocks, is one of ‘Fashioning Masculinities’ guiding principles (Wilcox notes that her favourite of the exhibition’s cabinets sees an 18th-century frock coat sit alongside a contemporary floral Gucci suit and Orlando-inspired couture gown by Kim Jones at Fendi, worn on the runway by male model Ludwig Wilsdorff). Over a further two rooms, titled ‘Overdressed’ and ‘Redressed’ – the former interrogating the ‘elite’ masculine wardrobe through an exploration of colour and print, the latter about the language of the suit – the same approach is illuminated by contemporary conversations about masculinity in fashion, whereby a new generation of designers are blurring what ‘menswear’ means today.  These designers’ work features throughout the exhibition. Like British-American designer Harris Reed, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2020, an early proponent of contemporary ‘gender-fluid’ fashion. His flamboyant creations, often featuring ruffles, pussy-bow collars and lace, have been memorably adopted by musician Harry Styles (including the crinoline and tulle gown he wore in the pages of American Vogue). A pink lamé shirt with lace bib and flared trousers by Reed feature in the ‘Overdressed’ gallery, as well as on the exhibition’s poster, and the designer will take part in the museum’s Fashion in Motion retrospective series to coincide with the show.  Wales Bonner S/S 2015 Afrique. Photograph by Dexter Lander Reed has previously served as muse for Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele, walking in the house’s Cruise 2019 collection and later appearing in an advertisement for Gucci’s ‘ageless, genderless’ fragrance Mémoire D’une Odeur. Works from Michele’s Gucci also feature in the exhibition – of which the Italian house is the main sponsor – including the aforementioned floral suit, part of the ‘Overdressed’ gallery, and a ruffled blue lace and tulle dress also worn by Styles in American Vogue (this time on the cover). Historical references feature in both Reed and Michele’s work, and ‘Fashioning Masculinities’ puts their clothing in conversation with the past. As a number of reviews of the exhibition have noted, the flamboyant ceremonial pink robes and plumed headdress worn by Charles Coote in a 1773 portrait, displayed in the middle of the exhibition, would not look out of place in either designer’s collection. Michele described his first collection for Gucci, back in 2015, as having ‘a dreamy ambiguity … a point of departure that blurs the masculine-feminine divide’, a precedent that has shaped his collections since. The raft of other contemporary designers that feature in the exhibition alongside Michele – Grace Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, Priya Ahluwalia, Nicholas Daley, Craig Green and Jonathan Anderson among them – also explore this point of ambiguity in menswear, each through their own distinct cultural lens. In the exhibition, their work is grouped thematically alongside the V&A’s archival pieces in moments that invite both comparison and juxtaposition. For example, a 2014 powder-pink Wales Bonner two-set from her ‘Afrique’ graduate collection appears next to a raspberry-coloured wool coat, waistcoat and britches from the 1760s, both regal in their ambitions – a delicate thread that unites two makers, centuries apart.  ‘I think the exhibition is about looking at past and present, comparing them, and trying to understand that many of the revolutions in men’s fashion today have historical precedents,’ says Wilcox. She admits that the timing of “Fashioning Masculinities” is fitting. ‘There have been moments of bravery in men’s clothing, and moments of caution. We’re very fortunate this exhibition coincides with a moment of renaissance. Menswear is now more exciting than ever.’ §  
http://dlvr.it/SLxbzv

Jewellery is reduced to essential forms in the hands of Dina Kamal

Jewellery takes on essential silhouettes that skim the contours of the body in pieces by London-based design studio Dina Kamal. Its eponymous founder is driven by a desire for architectural forms in her designs, which draw curves in 18ct gold, punctuating broken loops with diamonds or sinking pearls into puffed quilts of beige gold. ‘All our pieces start with what I refer to as “objects of fascination”, says the designer. ‘They can vary from nature to history, stories and characters, like the Michelin Man (or Bibendum), sea urchins and tribal jewellery – or our clients commission the works. It is about selecting an object of fascination, a thought or a feeling, and recreating it in a new form.’ The smooth loop of the ‘Tube Torc’ necklace is inspired by the neck rings historically worn by men as a marker of strength – this piece encourages an awareness of form and posture. In the ‘Falling Water’ earrings, baguette diamonds in rivers of beige gold bring a fluidity to the stones. A grey South Sea pearl perches on the fluid curve of the precious metal in the ‘Venus Pinky’ ring. ‘My goal is always to create a piece that is structured yet sensual, masculine and feminine. I feel this gives a powerful balance and allows it to be subtle yet bold,’ Kamal adds. ‘I love to define the character of the piece. To expose its “soul”. There is a balance that I aim to reach so that the work is bold yet understated. Also, there is a balance to be found between the structural and architectural, and the delicate and sensual. I feel when I give attention to these factors, the works tend to be stronger and more timeless.’ Kamal prefers to work in 18ct beige gold, otherwise known as raw white gold – ‘It is 18ct gold without copper, the true white gold,’ she says – with its understated sheen making it an elegant foil for the punctuations of diamonds. ‘Being an architect I always consider form, proportion, context, structure and beauty in everything I do. Most of all I consider how a piece or design can impact us emotionally. My goal is always to find the right balance for each piece, in order for it to feel part of you and to give you the edge to be in your element.’ §  
http://dlvr.it/SLwVM4

Limbo Accra and Ibiye Camp talk African urban landscapes and digital archives

Over the past year, Ghanaian spatial design studio Limbo Accra, developed a series of conversations together with Wallpaper*, engaging with creative practitioners that inspire the studio, in Africa and its diaspora. From democratising architectural perspectives through photography with Jerald ‘Coop’ Cooper of Hood Century, to challenging design paradigms with Tawanda Chiweshe of Alaska Alaska, and empowering the next generation of African designers with Nifemi Marcus-Bello of nm bello Studio, we round off this series by exploring Limbo Accra’s nascent collaboration with artist Ibiye Camp. Ibiye Camp and Limbo Accra Ibiye Camp is a multidisciplinary artist and lecturer at the Royal College of Arts (RCA) in London. With a Nigerian mother and English father, Camp’s work reflects her upbringing, straddling the binaries of her identity. Moreover, growing up against the backdrop of London’s East Street Market, with ‘market stalls selling plantain, yam, Scotch bonnets, lace and Dutch wax prints’, Camp found herself ‘searching for Nigeria’, a journey manifested in her work through the omnipresence of textiles, market stalls and themes of labour in public spaces. Ibiye Camp’s Area Snap Devices (Data: The New Black Gold) Camp reflects that she ‘was always curious about architecture’. She applied to do an MA in architecture at the RCA – drawn in by opportunities to explore intersections between the social and architectural across myriad mediums. With a keen interest in technology, Camp researched data centres, and how ‘imperialist structures influence internet access in Africa’. She began using photogrammetry, scanning moments of data exchange in places such as Balogun Market in Lagos, in order to better document spaces in ways ‘representative of the actions that happen within them’. Area Snap Devices (Data: The New Black Gold) film still Limbo Accra founder Dominique Petit-Frère’s practice of activating unfinished building sites through creative expression and Camp’s methods of documenting activities of spaces through technology, led to their natural confluence in Accra, in late 2021. This meeting developed into a partnership, and the two together are now planning to create a digital archive by scanning various sites in limbo across West Africa, starting in Accra and Freetown. These limbo structures are a recognisable aesthetic across West Africa, with deep cultural significance. Petit-Frère explains that ‘they reflect the different levels of exploitation within the construction industry and its disabling effect on the urban landscape.’ Petit-Frère guided Camp to Labadi Beach Tower in Accra, a 17-storey building, one of two of its kind planned to be built, to take scans. Camp says: ‘There were caretakers who warned, “You can’t get close, it’s not safe”, so I ended up circling the building’, which she describes as a ‘ghostly presence’. Labadi Beach Tower. Image: courtesy of Limbo Accra and Ibiye Camp In smaller structures, a chair, a washing line, or a piece of fabric across an imaginary doorway mark signs of inhabitants. Petit-Frère says: ‘Children are born within these arrangements, feeling and knowing that it’s home, but under these liminal jurisdictions never knowing when it’s time to go.’ The pair’s digital archive questions the future of the urban landscape in Africa, while keeping pace with the world’s reconfiguration into digital spaces. It will explore how urbanists, designers, and artists alike, can create new spatial artefacts that, for Petit-Frère, ‘simultaneously honour their visions while orienting them towards the future’. With plans for first-person-controller and augmented-reality functions, users will be able to highlight views, borders and details of each individual site, which will eventually form part of wider 3D digital cities that they can explore, inhabit and roam. Along with field recordings and interviews collected from locations, this multi-layered digital documentation of the incomplete spaces will allow for ‘renewal and restitution of the structure’s life span’. Airport Tower. Image: courtesy of Limbo Accra and Ibiye Camp Limbo Accra shared the beginning of the digital archive with Camp, along with local digital artists David Alabo and DatArtGod (Ohemeng Oware Jr) in Limbo Accra’s original activation site in East Legon. This was an opportunity to invite wider circles to engage with the development of the collaboration, opening up the digital archive to public contributions from local photographers and urbanists. Petit-Frère was particularly empowered by the organic process of information exchange with another female architect and designer in Accra, and ‘finding new ways to use architecture to experiment, experience and see the city as a playground’.  Echoing thoughts shared at The World Around summit, which took place earlier in 2022 in New York and the digital realm, Petit-Frère hopes that partnerships like these will help bring the reality of African infrastructure to wider audiences, allowing them to form part of the global built language as identifiable, imaginable and activatable spaces. § Sharjah Architecture Triennale, Sacred Forests of Ethiopia. Photography: Matthew Twaddell   Data The New Black Gold 3D model in Freetown
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Sleeping beauty: tricks for getting a better night’s sleep

Nothing is as fundamental to a healthy mind – and healthy skin – as a good snooze. One of the curious paradoxes of the last couple of years is that while many of us found ourselves spending more time than ever in our pyjamas, we’ve been getting less sleep. So what’s the trick to a good night’s sleep? Our bedtime edit is here to help you make the most of your nightly shut-eye, with everything from high-tech body monitors to aromatherapy tinctures and soothing supplements.  Accessories to help you sleep  Offhours robe Offhours is an ‘inactive-wear’ brand. At least that’s what it calls itself since it’s adamantly not activewear and more inspired than ’sleepwear.’ Its first and so far its only product, The Homecoat, is an ultra-comfortable quilted robe that feels like wearing a duvet but looks a lot better. The fact that it’s unisex, machine-washable, and pocket-filled makes it all the more practical.  Ahead of World Sleep Day, the brand has just launched the robe in a ‘Red Rock’ shade inspired by the terracotta hues of the Arizona desert with 5 per cent of proceeds donated to The Arizona Wildlife Federation. offhours.com Kate Mcleod sleep stone Kate Mcleod’s ‘stones’ are solid moisturisers that instantly melt when they come into contact with heat from skin. The stone types vary, with a Mama stone for children, a Naked Stone for intimate use, and a General Stone for everyday moisturisation. The stone’s vegan formulation of refined cocoa butter and sweet almond oil is ideal for irritated or ultra-dry skin.  The brand’s Sleep Stone is subtly perfumed with a calming mixture of chamomile and lavender. It can be used all over the body for pre-sleep moisturisation or simply dabbed on wrists for instant aromatherapy.  katemcleod.com Jo Malone lavender candle  A peaceful environment is key for effective sleep, and a luxury candle is always the most obvious ambiance booster. Set the scene for dreams with Jo Malone’s Lilac Lavender & Lovage candle. One of the six scents that make up the brand’s new Townhouse Collection, this scent makes an ideal bedside companion with its calming combination of lavender and herby-fresh lovage. jomalone.co.uk Gingerlily silk pillowcase Silk pillowcases are an age-old beauty trick. By absorbing less moisture than other fabrics, silk naturally combats hair frizz, reduces the appearance of fine lines, and works wonders for acne sufferers by preventing additional skin irritation and dirt build-up. Gingerlily’s pillowcases are made of mulberry silk which contains the same naturally occurring protein that exists in skin and hair, meaning the frictionless fabric keeps hair follicles flat and skin blemish-free. gingerlilylondon.com Chanel nighttime fragrance Heighten the luxury of a silk pillowcase with a spritz of Chanel’s nighttime fragrance, Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée. Almost twenty years since the creation of the original Coco Mademoiselle, L’Eau Privée offers a warmer, subtler interpretation of the classic fragrance, particularly formulated for nighttime wear. chanel.com Anatomē sleep oil Wallpaper* Design Award winners, Anatomē creates sleep-inducing products that cover everything from its signature supplements to sleep masks and candles. We recommend them all, but particularly the aromatherapy tinctures designed with different scents that aid overactive minds, light sleepers, and insomniacs. Pair them with a cup of the brand’s ‘Recovery + Sleep’ loose leaf tea, a cosy blend of chamomile, lemon balm, and passionflower. anatome.com Technology to help you switch off  Hästens sleep app The transfixing glow of a phone screen is the most unhelpful kind of nightlight, and yet it’s a familiar presence for many in the hours before finally falling asleep. Yet now, the Hästens Restore app transforms technology into an aid, rather than a hindrance, of good old-fashioned shut-eye. The luxury Swedish bed company has translated its sleep expertise into a series of instrumental soundtracks designed to enhance different moments of the day, from the first moments of waking up to the last seconds before you fall asleep. hastens.com Oura sleep monitor ring  The recently launched Oura ring offers an even more high-tech antidote to sleep problems. The ring’s unassuming metal exterior conceals a complex network of micro-sensors that monitor body signals like body temperature and respiratory rate to generate an in-depth sleep profile. Upon waking, users can check the Oura app for a breakdown of their sleep time, sleep latency (how long it takes to fall asleep), and sleep efficiency. After a few weeks, the ring offers insight on your optimal sleep time and ‘readiness’ scores that estimate how the previous evenings’ sleep will impact your day. ouraring.com Bedtime rituals for a good night’s sleep The Seated Queen cold cream Cold creams might seem like a beauty practice of the past, but there’s a reason your grandma used them and there’s a reason you should too. The Seated Queen seeks to upend common perceptions of cold cream with its trendy visuals and sustainable production practices. This one-product-only brand creates its signature cream with a combination of essential and cold-pressed seed oils, to provide a relaxing, cool-to-the-touch sensation upon application. Just like the cold creams of yesteryear, it’s a versatile product that can be used as a make-up remover, facial mask, or overnight mask. theseatedqueen.com The Dreem Distillery bath salts  The Dreem Distillery is a CBD brand with products specifically designed to aid sleep. Its newly launched bath salts are formulated with tension-releasing Epsom and Himalayan salts, detoxifying lemongrass oil, and broad-spectrum CBD to get you relaxed and ready for bed. Pair with the brand’s CBD bath oil for a boost of skin hydration.   The Nue Co magnesium spray The Nue Co Magnesium Ease spray combats the common problem of magnesium deficiency with a blend of high-concentrate magnesium chloride, calming lavender, and anti-inflammatory arnica oil. Magnesium deficiency has been connected to poor sleep quality, muscle cramps, and nerve pain. A simple spritz of The Nue Co’s spray delivers 45mg of magnesium that is instantly absorbed through the skin, relaxing tension and preparing the body for rest. thenueco.com Supplements designed to encourage sleep  Votary sleep supplements English skincare brand Votary knows that a healthy complexion is impossible without some quality shut-eye. For those who struggle to achieve beauty sleep, the brand has created a ‘Super Sleep’ supplement with serotonin-producing L-Tryptophan and L-Theanine, as well as lemon balm and magnesium for natural relaxation. votary.com Mineral sleep CBD For a plant-based option, Mineral’s Sleep tincture blends CBD with notes of cedarwood and Californian pine to conjure up the sensation of sleeping among the Redwoods from the comfort of your mattress. standarddose.com §
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Lucas Bauer’s debut jewellery collection is a sensual delight

‘My pieces have seductive intentions,’ says Lucas Bauer as his first jewellery collection, ‘Hyphos’, celebrates organic forms http://dlvr....