miercuri, 22 iunie 2022

Sustainable hotel design championed at Inhabit Queen’s Gardens

The most sustainable thing to do for the planet is probably to avoid travelling much; but if travel seems inevitable, planning a journey in the most eco-friendly way is definitely the way to go. If you’re London bound, the newest offering in the Inhabit family, the chain’s Queen’s Gardens location, could fit the bill nicely. The newly opened Inhabit Queen’s Gardens, designed by Holland Harvey Architects, is a project conceived using key principles of sustainable hotel design – without compromising on comfort or style. In fact, its sustainable architecture is so well embedded in its making that it’s an aspect you don’t even notice during a visit – natural materials aside.  For the architecture studio behind it, headed by Richard Holland and Jonathan Harvey, this was not the first foray into hotel design – they were also behind Inhabit’s other London location, in Paddington. But it’s the first time they have been able to take their sustainability ambitions to this level, working with the more environmentally friendly overall approach of restoration and redesign (as opposed to building anew). The design repurposes a crescent of Grade II-listed mid-19th-century Victorian townhouses, delicately transforming them into a haven of urban calm. Public spaces on the ground floor include a café, a restaurant and a lounge area, as well as a library and meeting rooms, which are bookable for both hotel guests and the general public. Wellness spaces, including a spa, and exercise and yoga rooms, occupy the fully refreshed lower-ground level, which used to be a dark and badly ventilated restaurant.  The property’s sustainable hotel design credentials are impressive, spanning the fact that just under 100 per cent of waste from construction was diverted from landfill via recycling initiatives or reused, in elements such as the Granby Rock custom-made terrazzo used on the fireplace (by Granby Workshop); the use of eco-friendly surfaces and materials such as carefully sourced timber, paper-based fibre composite Richlite, and cork; and a focus on locally sourced furniture, including elements created by social enterprise Goldfinger.  Changes in materials and floor treatments subtly delineate different functions in the communal spaces, where needed, while cleverly designed and styled interiors in off-white and green tones, and warm, natural-finish woods ensure that spaces – such as the 70-cover restaurant – feel cosy and intimate. ‘Celebrating and enhancing the existing heritage building and keeping sustainability at the heart of the project inspired subtle but deliberate architectural moves. This careful approach to design brought the concept of the new Inhabit hotel to life. Working alongside a creative and collaborative team with a diverse skill set and a clear vision from the client naturally resulted in a building that feels like a home away from home. The final project is not just a hotel with comfortable bedrooms but a gift of a new space to enjoy for the whole neighbourhood and Inhabit guests alike,’ says Maria Gutierrez, senior architect at Holland Harvey, who worked on the project. §
http://dlvr.it/SSdCM0

marți, 21 iunie 2022

This summer’s most luxurious beach bags

If this summer looks to be one of unrestrained escapism – the lifting of restrictions all but guaranteeing a mass exodus to the beach – so too comes the necessity of a packing list to match, balancing a desire for relaxation and ease with the frivolity and excess that comes from finding yourself far from the daily routines of home. These conundrums find a solution in an array of this season’s holiday-ready bags, large and small, each providing a luxurious take on the humble beach bag that will elevate even the simplest of swimsuits.  Holiday-ready beach bags, Celine to Chanel Bag, £4,475; bag, £4,215; top, £1,275; swimsuit, £575; sunglasses, £405; cuff, £1,275, all by Chanel At Chanel, a high-glamour S/S 2022 collection recalled the era of 1990s swimwear-clad supers, accessorised with the ‘22’ tote, an oversized riff on the house’s signature quilted handbags – room enough for the usual overpacked jumble of beach-day accoutrements – complete with requisite chain handle and golden ‘Chanel’-branded medallion. Equally expansive is Celine’s ‘Cabas Cuir Triomphe’ in supple tan calfskin, closing with an easy drawstring fastening; pack wisely, and you’ll have space inside for a whole weekend’s worth of outfits. Max Mara’s slouchy wear-anywhere ‘Jean’ handbag, meanwhile, arrived as part of a S/S 2022 collection inspired by Françoise Sagan’s Bonjour Tristesse, the 1954 existentialist novel which captures a teenager’s languorous summer days spent in the south of France.  Bag, £1,800; bodysuit, £485, both by Paula’s Ibiza Elsewhere, a summertime spectrum of colour and texture set a carefree mood: Dior’s ‘Lady Dior’ handbag came this time in a miniature iteration, crafted from wicker – recalling picnic baskets and summer hats – while woven raffia made up bags from Prada and Paula’s Ibiza, Loewe’s seasonal offshoot inspired by the Balearic isle’s seminal 1970s boutique. ‘Sexy and liberated,’ said Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson of the wider collection, reflecting this season’s escapist spirit. ‘A carefree attitude that is quintessentially Ibiza.’ § Bag; dress; rucksack, all price on request, by Bottega Veneta. Earrings, £175, by Completedworks Blue bag, £1,950; raffia bag, £1,400; bustier, £720; hat, £590, all by Prada. Briefs, £230, by Max Mara Bag (left), £3,600; bag (right), £2,600; shirt, £1,600; skirt, £1,100, all by Dior. Earrings, £215, by Completedworks Bag, £5,020; swimsuit, £425, both by Hermès  Bag, £2,350; bra, £370, both by Fendi. Briefs, £22, by Skims  
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Fire-resistant Sonoma house is perched in the Californian landscape

It was only a few months after Mork-Ulnes Architects had completed a trio of concrete guest houses for a private client in Northern California, when the region’s terrible wildfires struck, destroying the property’s main house – yet miraculously leaving the guest houses untouched. Soon after, the owner approached studio founder Casper Mork-Ulnes and his team to commission a new main home for the property, and Frame House was born. This is a Sonoma house specifically designed to withstand similar future disasters, while at the same time looking every inch the sleek, contemporary family home. The project sits on an idyllic perch in the Sonoma hills, used as a retreat for a San Francisco family. The clients use the space for holidays and to get away with friends and extended family on long weekends. While the owners were lucky and nobody was harmed during the past wildfires, they were understandably very concerned about future incidences, putting fire-resistance high on the list of priorities. Mork-Ulnes obliged, working with a selection of fire-resistant building materials right from the outset.  The home is created around a two-storey concrete structure based on a three-dimensional grid, placed above a landscape of manzanita groves, pine-forested hillsides and the property’s pool area. ‘After the Nuns Fire of 2017 ravaged the surrounding area and damaged the property, the clients asked us to design a new house that would be armoured against future wildfires,’ says the architect. ‘The concept was to design an all-concrete house that is wrapped in a sacrificial layer of wood that gave a nod to the local vernacular farm structures in the area – so that its materiality still feels like it fits with a Northern California home, despite being structurally of concrete.’ Modernist influences of the West Coast midcentury legacy, the importance of light and air, as well as his own Nordic heritage played a role in Mork-Ulnes’ final design, delivering a residential property that feels generous, bright and finely tuned. Interiors and lighting by The Office of Charles De Lisle were composed to blend harmoniously with the overall architectural approach of this Sonoma house.  ‘A deep loggia and a repetitive grid of columns create the structure of the house. The loggia creates both a respite from the hot Sonoma sun and a rhythmic pattern that provides the order and framework for the house. The grid structure defines the functions of the house and whether they are introverted or extroverted to the site, depending on if they are filled in with a void of glass or solid wall,’ says Mork-Ulnes. Functional and aesthetically consistent, the house is a 21st-century retreat that responds to its site and circumstances. §
http://dlvr.it/SSZtlS

Garden parasols: find the coolest sunshade for your space

The sun’s here, and hopefully to stay: our selection of contemporary garden parasols is an ode to summer and a practical edit of some of the best parasols from the world’s leading designers and manufacturers. Creatively conceived and robust for the outdoors, these garden parasols are perfect to add a bit of shade as well as colour and creative inspiration to your family-friendly urban garden, poolside or balcony.  ‘Shadoo’ Garden Parasol by Fermob Available in three pastel shades, Fermob’s Shadoo Parasol features water-resistant Sunbrella fabric and a wide shade with a clean silhouette. The French, outdoor furniture specialist created a parasol that easily adapts to any space, thanks to the traditional, minimalist shape and fresh colour palette, ideal to get your garden or poolside for the summer. fermob.com Shadylace parasol by Chris Kabel for Droog Rotterdam designer Chris Kabel has created a city parasol for Dutch brand Droog, whose shade mimics the green foliage of a tree, made in collaboration with Dessailes lace. The Rotterdam-based designer has brought his fascination for nature to a popular outdoor product, drawing from the natural shade of trees for inspiration. Filtering the sun through a composition of delicate leaves, the parasol offers a moment of connection with nature that can be added to any city balcony. droog.com ‘Free’ Parasol by Ethimo Ethimo’s outdoor furniture expertise comes to life in the ‘Free’ collection of parasols: featuring a solid aluminium frame (with multiple weights available for bases, depending on its use), it is available in red, white and dove grey, and comes in two square sizes and one rectangular. The essential sunshade design is a perfect complement to the architecture of both large and small outdoor spaces.  ethimo.it ‘Ensombra’ Parasol by Odosdesign for Gandia Blasco Inspired by the design and movement of a fan, the ‘Ensombra’ parasol from Spanish outdoor furniture specialist Gandia Blasco is a welcome variation on the garden parasol theme. ‘We have transferred the system of opening and closing a fan to a different product type, the sunshade, to obtain a simple system that can be opened and closed over a single slat,’ say Odosdesign, the creative team behind the piece. The parasol features a galvanised steel base and a stainless steel thermo-lacquered shaft. The shade’s adjustable slats are available in white, agate grey, concrete grey, bronze, sand, black, blue grey, wine red, orange brown and grey brown, to add a pop of colour to your garden. Create a dynamic chromatic composition by combining a few. gandiablasco.com ‘Gea’ Parasol by Chi Wing Lo for Giorgetti Giorgetti’s outdoor offering made its debut in 2017 with a collection by Chinese designer Chi Wing Lo. Named after the Greek word for ‘earth’, the ‘Gea’ collection celebrates the openness of outdoor living. Mounted on a 360-degree swivel frame with a stainless steel or marble-insert base, the sail-like parasol is a welcome breath of fresh air in the world of sun screens. giorgettimeda.com ‘Bistrò’ Parasol by Fattorini + Rizzini + Partners for Paola Lenti Paola Lenti collections aim to create new domestic landscapes, and this sunshade by Milanese design studio Fattorini + Rizzini + Partners is a playful nod in this direction. The parasol sits on an upholstered pouf, and is equipped with a detachable side table. paolalenti.it ‘Meteo’ Parasol by Konstantin Grcic for Kettal Konstantin Grcic’s practical parasol design for Kettal started with a simple idea: turning the obstacle-like parasol foot into something useful and beautiful. The ‘Meteo’ collection marks the first collaboration between Grcic and the Spanish outdoor furniture brand, and ‘aims to explore the largely untapped design potential of modern parasols’. The base of the parasol becomes seating, dining table and even a planter, offering ‘a useful gesture to an otherwise obtrusive element’. kettal.com ‘Titan’ umbrella collection by Janus et Cie Janus et Cie’s parasol collection comprises classic sunshades in bright and traditional colours. ‘Sleek lines and modern shapes provide the framework for these stunning umbrellas,’ says Janice Feldman, the brand’s founder. ‘“Titan” is one of those rare examples of quantity and quality. The umbrellas are huge – and among the most innovative, elegant shade solutions in the industry.’ Built with superior aluminum alloy and an interior galvanised steel stem, the parasols can be customised in more than 85 awning-grade textiles. Each model is also available in three sizes, for maximum garden design flexibility.  janusetcie.com §
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Peter Marino’s refurbished Chanel boutique reopens its doors in Paris

Chanel nods to its rich history in the boutique at 18 Place Vendôme, Paris, which has reopened its doors after a year-long refurbishment by American architect Peter Marino. Situated opposite the Ritz – where Gabrielle Chanel once lived – the opening of the newly rethought space coincides with the 90th anniversary of ‘Bijoux de Diamants’, Gabrielle Chanel’s first and only high jewellery collection. The extensive boutique is reserved exclusively for fine and high jewellery and watches, encompassing a vast collection that includes exceptional, one-of-a-kind pieces such as the ‘No.5’ necklace. ‘The Jewellery Creation Studio, directed by Patrice Leguéreau, and the High Jewellery workshop will continue to have their home in this historic building, building on our history and legacy. And so will the Watchmaking Creation Studio, led by Arnaud Chastaingt,’ says Chanel watches and fine jewellery president Frédéric Grangié. ‘It is thus the private townhouse of Chanel that we are opening to the public, a highly symbolic address for us because of its history and its position.’ Peter Marino, who first reimagined the building in 2007, has revisited the space once again, with an aesthetic that nods to the design codes of the house. A palette of Chanel colours – white, gold, black and beige – sit alongside a juxtaposition of textures, from the lacquer that was a personal favourite of Gabrielle Chanel to the distinctive tweed, hammered bronze, wood, and gilded Goossens chandeliers. ‘Working with specialist ateliers and the rare crafts they deploy is a commitment to time,’ says Marino. ‘Chanel is an extraordinary company, with great craftsmanship. I’m always awestruck by the constant creativity of the brand, from its fine jewellery collections to haute couture. It is not a static house.’ The boutique is defined by works of art, including pieces by Idris Khan, sculptors Johan Creten and Joel Morrison and a 1950 oil painting by Nicolas de Staël, Composition. ‘I had originally purchased Composition from Sotheby’s in London more than 20 years ago on behalf of a client, who later sold it,’ says Marino. ‘When Chanel mentioned this was the painting they considered buying, I thought it was wild. But the house felt it really represents the same kind of luxurious modernism, forward thinking but at the same time, bearing this sort of ancient eternalism that represented the values of Chanel well. I was thrilled.’ §  
http://dlvr.it/SSYmpR

Thabisa Mjo and Mash.T unveil sculptural brass lighting

When Thabisa Mjo released her ‘Tutu’ lights in 2015, there was something effervescent about the design. The shape – inspired by a Xibelani skirt worn by Xitsonga women of South Africa – was as magnificent as an haute couture dress.  More than just a home product, the ‘Tutu’ light became a piece of art; it was acquired by the Musée Des Arts Décoratifs in Paris as well as being voted the Most Beautiful Object in South Africa by a public vote at Design Indaba in 2018. ‘Brazzo’ brass lighting Mjo’s latest product collection, titled ‘Brazzo’ and launched by her design studio Mash.T, comprises six brass lighting designs. ‘My inspiration has always been about my lived experiences of culture and heritage,’ says the designer. ‘So this year, I told myself I wanted to create shapes using brass, because I think of brass as elegant [but] antique. I wanted to make something [considered] old into [something] contemporary that could be relevant, young, funky, cool and still have a refined elegance.’ Mjo took inspiration from the concept of Lego building blocks, how they could appear independently but when manipulated, could make up an interesting shape. So she sat in her factory thinking of shapes and the possibilities of using existing shapes to invent a new shape. The ‘Brazzo’ collection consists of five pendant lamps and a table lamp. The designer’s particular favourites are the ‘Mesh’ table lamp and the ‘Mon’ pendant, because each has a black mesh steel component, which makes them more edgy, cooler.  ‘Initially we tried using perforated brass, but every time we tried to manipulate it to take that beautiful round form, it kept breaking,’ says Mjo. ‘So the mesh steel was used out of necessity. And it just happened to work even better than the perforated brass would have.’ Thabisa Mjo and Mash.T Since her early success, Mjo has established herself as one of South Africa’s leading designers. She graduated from the South African School of Motion Picture Medium and Live Performance, where she majored in production design. She pursued a career in the film industry, until it occurred to her that she wanted to create something spectacular for the real world. ‘I wanted to create spaces that people in the real world could interact with, because creating spaces for TV and adverts was a very short-term thing; we would shoot the movie and TV shows and it would just be over, while people in the real world didn’t interact with these spaces. I wanted to make things that could live with people or things people can live in,’ she recalls. She didn’t just want to create, she also wanted to tell stories – and design was the only way to do so. Mjo founded Mash.T in 2013, immediately after graduating from Inscape design college in Cape Town, where she studied interior design and architectural drawing. She spent the better part of the first two years trying to discover what she did best, who her audience was, and what service she’d provide them with, until late 2015, when she transitioned into product designing. Traditional craft, contemporary designs At Mash.T, African arts tools are employed to tell contemporary African stories – lamps feature Xhosa motifs, side tables are handwoven with ilala palms, pendant lights are made of beads.   The brand’s production centres on craftsmanship and collaboration. ‘Creating a new design aesthetic requires collaboration with other designers and crafters that share the same values, which are about taking traditional craft, repackaging it, working with crafters to challenge them to use their age-old techniques that have been passed from generation to generation,’ Mjo tells Wallpaper*. Collaborators include artisanal brands such as Alfred Ntuli, resulting in the ‘Alfred’ lights; Qaqambile Bead Studio, producing beaded lighting designs; and Beauty Ngxongo, to create the ‘Hlabisa’ bench. Mash.T is also keen to collaborate with artisans outside of South Africa and across the continent.  A shift in focus While the brand had previously operated largely as a B2B service, Mjo decided to take a more direct approach to reaching consumers in the wake of the global pandemic. ‘When Covid-19 struck, a lot of commercial developments stopped. [The idea] came to me to make something that was easy for a consumer to buy. I pictured it wouldn’t be too big and sculptural like our lights are. It needed to be small and fit in an average size home,’ she says. Mash.T sought to design pieces its team could make in the factory at a competitive price, so more people could purchase them. ‘We introduced the [woven ilala palm] “Bright Side” table and the “Flute” table that was made of terrazzo. We designed small lights for desks,’ says Mjo. ‘With the stories that we have been telling, it has gotten a lot of people invested in what we want to build. I found that people really wanted a piece of that, but I wasn’t answering their desire to be a part of Mash.T because I was so focused on selling to offices and commercial audiences.’ Today the brand caters to both audiences, balancing making products that satisfy its retailers with those for its direct consumers too. §  
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luni, 20 iunie 2022

Home office chairs: are you sitting comfortably?

Our edit of home office chairs ranges from the classics of ergonomic design to contemporary icons by celebrated masters and new designs by some of the best creative practices - all intended to boost productivity through comfort. For many of us, working patterns have changed for good. Whether you need an all-day home office chair or an occasional chair for your study, check out Wallpaper’s selection of the best chairs for the task, spanning a range of styles and materials.  Swivel, rocking, tilting or wheeled, these office chairs are flexible, adjustable and versatile seats that are made to last, and easy to fit into your domestic environment.  Explore our pick of best home office chairs by contemporary makers The bentwood, mid-century inspired office chair Name: Giroflex 150 Designer: Big-Game, for Giroflex with Karimoku New Standard Price: £1,780 Swiss office furniture brand Giroflex celebrated 150th anniversary with the launch of an unusual wooden office chair, in collaboration with Karimoku New Standard. Lausanne-based studio Big-Game has delved into the brand’s archive in search of inspiration, finding a treasure trove of turn-of-the-century bentwood designs, shaped for optimal comfort and clearly built to last. ‘Whenever we find a vintage Giroflex wooden chair in a second-hand shop, we’re amazed by how comfortable it still is,’ say the designers. Their contemporary version, which is perfectly balanced with tilt points under both the seat and the backrest that allow the chair to adapt to the weight and movements of its user, aims to reflect the best of Swiss design – sturdy, understated and of the highest quality. giroflex.com The essential work chair Name: Jiro Swivel Chair Designer: John Tree, for Resident Price: £550 The result of a collaboration between New Zealand furniture brand Resident and British designer John Tree, the Jiro Swivel Chair is a minimalist take on traditional office seating. Featuring a responsive, 4 star die-cast base and low back - inviting shifting of posture and active manoeuvrability in its users. ‘The brief from Resident was to design something simple, not overly technical, but subtly ergonomic,’ observes Tree, who focused on paring back the design, only leaving the essential elements. ‘It is clear that work isn’t really occurring in the archetypal office anymore. It is spreading out and taking place in people’s homes, in coffee shops, and also in very dynamic situations where people are sharing workspaces. So the point of this chair is to address this modern need for utility.’ resident.co.nz The tilting office chair Name: D1 Office Chair Designer: Stefan Diez, for Wagner Price: from €750.80 Designed by Stefan Diez, the D1 features Wagner’s distinctive Dondola seat joint (developed with Diez), offering a micro movement while sitting that helps relieve and strengthen the spine. This technology by the German company is the result of a scientific study testing people regularly using the chair, revealing that Dondola users had less or no back pain. The chair features a streamlined design that features a single curved shape forming the seat and back, and is available with or without armrests, and in a new lounge chair version, the D1 Low, expanding the range into every aspect of living.  wagner.tv Arne Jacobsen’s office chair for Oxford professors Name: Oxford chair Designer: Arne Jacobsen, produced by Fritz Hansen Price: from £1,619 Arne Jacobsen designed this office chair in the 1960s for professors of St. Catherine’s College in Oxford, as part of a wider architectural commission for the campus. Originally used in the college’s banquet hall (while students sat on the Danish architect’s  Series 7 chairs), the chair’s first iteration featured a sinuous wooden silhouette, and it is now faithfully recreated as an ergonomic office chair (with updated details and increased lumbar support). Available with a tall or low backrest and the option of armrests, the chair’s new reissue is available in a range of upholstery options featuring leather or fabric. The new version also includes an extended seat and upgraded tilt mechanism to better respond to different desk activities and body types.  fritzhansen.com A compact, customizable ergonomic chair  Name: Hȧg Tion Designers: Anderssen & Vol, Big-Game and Hunting & Narud Price: from £380+VAT Three design studios came together for the design of this chair by Flokk. Anderssen & Vol, Big-Game and Hunting & Narud collaborated with Flokk’s design team to create a lightweight, customisable, and flexible office chair that responds to the ever changing needs of home and office working. ‘There is such a huge demand for a chair that fits in with your life, does not take up too much space and works just as well in your home office as in an actual office,’ says Oscar Narud. The chair is conceived to be compact to work well in small spaces, and can be customised with available combinations of wood, plastic, aluminium and upholstered elements, with or without armrests and in a wide range of colours and finishes. flokk.com The classic office chair re-engineered Name: ‘Aeron’ chair Designers: Bill Stumpf and Don Chadwick for Herman Miller Price: From £1,030 Herman Miller’s ‘Aeron’ chair is possibly the most iconic contemporary home office chair, featuring what its creators called a ‘health-positive design’. Designed in 1994, the chair’s aesthetics have remained largely unchanged through the years, while its materials and structure has been tweaked and developed over time to offer best support for any posture. Features such as a refined tilt mechanism, adjustable PostureFit lumbar support and 8Z Pellicle mesh on the seat and back ensure increased comfort and ergonomic support. and while the ‘Aeron’ chair is nearly universally recognised as one of the best and the most versatile office chairs, the Herman Miller catalogue offers variations on the theme that include an Yves Behar-designed chair as well as a chair specifically created for gaming. hermanmiller.com A Danish aluminium office chair Name: ‘Vipp’ chair Designer: Vipp Price: from £779 Danish furniture company Vipp unveiled a new model of its classic chair. Featuring a new polished aluminium frame, sand-coloured leather upholstery and a swivel option, the ‘Vipp’ chair returns with a new look ready for the home office. ‘The combination of polished aluminium and leather in a nude colour offers a raw aesthetic expression with a nod to our long history of using pure and genuine materials in our product designs,’ comments Morten Bo Jensen, Vipp’s chief cesigner. vipp.com A work from home office chair Name: ‘KN07’ desk chair Designer: Piero Lissoni, for Knoll Price: from £650 Part of Knoll’s new ‘Work from Home’ collection, this is the latest in a series of modernist-inspired chairs designed by Piero Lissoni for the American company. Its elegant, fluid form is created by fusing the inner frame and outer surfaces of the seat’s moulded shell, with the super-smooth exterior, available in either fabric or leather. Meanwhile, the chair’s cast aluminium base comes in either a simple four-leg version in glossy white or black, or an adjustable swivel in chrome or black finish with a four- or five-star base on gliders or castors. knoll-int.com The original ergonomic kneeling chair Name: ‘Variable’ chair Designer: Peter Opsvik, produced by Varier Price: from £309 ‘Sit down, move on’ is the motto behind Peter Opsvik’s ‘Variable’ chair, whose original ergonomic design was first conceived in 1979 as an avant garde home office chair based on human-centred design. The simple backless rocking chair (with the optional addition of a slim back) promotes correct posture and movement, and its padded seat and knee rests are available in a series of bold hues (recently curated by Snøhetta for a limited edition collection). ‘Varier’s approach to sitting is humanistic and holistic,’ says the company. ‘By challenging the notion that sitting equates to stillness, the chairs listen to our bodies, support us while giving us freedom, and aim to elongate our lives and that of the environment.’ varierfurniture.com A cushioned home office chair in a variety of colour and material options   Name: ‘Alvo’ chair Designer: Jehs + Laub, for Cor Price: from £920 Fit for a study corner anywhere in the home, the ‘Alvo’ chair by Stuttgart-based designers Markus Jehs and Jürgen Laub features a matt plastic shell with soft cushioned interior. The chair is available in four frame variants, with a 360 swivel function and cosy removable cushions in fabric or leather with multiple colour combinations. The ‘Alvo’ chair is so soft and comfortable that it allows you to sit at a table or desk for long periods and swings comfortably between home and home office, and back again.   cor.de A timeless chair for every office Name: ‘Eames Aluminium Group’ Designers: Ray and Charles Eames, produced by Vitra Price: from £2,160 The fact that this super-sleek home office chair was originally designed by Ray and Charles Eames in 1958 might come as a bit of a surprise. Initially conceived for the home of a private collector, the ‘Aluminium Group’ features a simple metal structure over which fabric is stretched to create ‘a taut but elastic seat’ that adapts to a person’s body. A design so well-considered and made that each chair comes with a 30-year warranty. vitra.com §  
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Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada

The menswear edition of Milan Fashion Week returns with aplomb this season, after a muted January outing due to the arrival of the Omicron variant. Under a hot Milanese sun, the city’s brands have come to life with offerings for S/S 2023 that channel an escapist mood and propose a multiplicity of ways of dressing for the season ahead. Among them, a juxtaposition of archetypal menswear garments at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana’s noughties re-editions, and JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in Milan. Here, in an ongoing report, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S2023, as it happens.  The best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023 DSquared2 Dean and Dan Caten looked towards the surfer for inspiration for their latest collection, mashing up the archetype with their own brand of glamour and flash. Eclectic layering – as if the various items of clothing were picked up on travels around the world – was the collection’s hallmark, whether a colourful sarong tied over a studded jean, a Honda-branded biker jacket with shorts and flip flops, or a colourful array of jumpers tied around the waist (prints were equally eclectic, from block-printed turtles to various New Age motifs). Elsewhere, the duo paid ode to musician Bob Marley, uniting with the late artist’s foundation, his face used as a motif across outerwear, shoulder bags and T-shirts – the latter worn by the duo to take their bare-footed bow.   1017 Alyx 9SM The derelict Franco Sciarino swimming pool provided the backdrop for Matthew Williams’ latest collection for 1017 Alyx 9SM. In the late afternoon heat, it was a location which felt fitting for a collection where skin-baring looks and abbreviated silhouettes suggested a high-summer mood. The hallmarks of Williams’ work at the label remained in this second Milan Fashion Week outing: sharply-cut blazers and gilets in optic white, sliced-away tops and dresses, and visor-like sunglasses encapsulated the designer’s clean-lined, industrial approach to cut and form. A series of more diaphanous looks – asymmetric-hem gowns, mini dresses which twisted around the body or could be adjusted by waves of toggle fastenings – lent a sensual contrast. Williams also chose the occasion to introduce his latest collaboration with Nike, the MMW Zoom 5, a perforated ergonomic slide with flashes of silver in the sole – no doubt coming to a poolside near you soon.  Emporio Armani  Giorgio Armani noted that this season he was thinking about the idea of lightness, not simply in the collection’s texture, but also in the conception of a wardrobe which encapsulated the freedom of dressing for the summer months – ‘the sheer joy of dressing for the season: choosing clothes and accessories to thrown on without too much thought’. Ease, therefore, defined the season’s offering, communicated through riffs on the shirt, the garment which Armani said was the nexus of the season (often both shirts and trousers were cut from the same fabrics). The desire was to create pieces which barely touched the skin – loose-fit tunics, unstructured tailoring, details which included ties, slits, openings and cuts – allowing the body to breathe. Around the showspace at Armani/Teatro was a woven motif reminiscent of a basket; Armani noted that he sees Emporio as ‘a container of possibilities’, here providing a gamut of carefree looks for the year’s warmest months. Or, ‘a basketful of summer,’ as the house described.  Dolce & Gabbana A journey into the Dolce & Gabbana archive provided the starting point of a collection which saw items of clothing from the brand’s history – reworked from the years 1990-2000 – return to the runway, alongside contemporary looks designed in the same spirit (the collection was titled ‘Re-Edition’). As such, the collection had the undone feel reminiscent of the eras referenced: cargo pants sliced away at the knee and worn with skimpy ribbed white vests, a T-shirt printed with the Virgin Mary and dotted with holes, denim washed, bleached and patchworked, or left raw around its edges. Tailoring provided a sleek contrast – whether a variety of riffs on the tuxedo jacket or blazers cut from lace or jacquard – while D&G waistband-branded underwear had a particularly 1990s flavour, completing a vision for the season where past and present intertwined. Fendi An exploration of freedom was also on the agenda at Fendi, ‘an ageless sense of freedom to play, as we rediscover the luxury of free time,’ as Silvia Venturini Fendi described. The house’s double-F logo spun above the showspace; its ‘upside down and inside out’ design used a metaphor here for the collection’s looks, which were defined by a feeling of contrast, juxtaposition and play (‘a boundless exploration of style at the fulcrum between nostalgia and innovation’). In particular, the ‘reality and fantasy’ of denim felt definitive of the season, whether cut into roomy, workwear-inspired silhouettes, a frayed-edge denim version of the Fendi Baguette, or appearing as a trompe l’oeil print throughout. Elsewhere, there was an exploration of the quotidian men’s wardrobe – the familiar, reimagined – interspersed with the moments of play which have become Venturini Fendi’s calling card, from cow-print shoppers to bucket hats, sliced away across their tops. Versace High-octane fashion has always been Donatella Versace’s MO; for her S/S 2023 collection, which marked her return to menswear week, she riffed on house hallmarks in a collection which promised ‘classicism energised’. As such, an archival print which depicted the death masks of Pompeii provided the collection’s starting point, while models – which included the sons of a pantheon of legendary Versace supers, from Helena Christensen to Angela Lindvall – grasped urns in their hands, as if wandering away with classical treasures (others had miniature Versace plates hanging from their belts). ‘Contrast is everything to me, it makes you think and feel,’ said the designer of the collection, communicated through juxtaposed silhouettes: easy, oversized tailoring and airy silk shirts versus skimpy, flush-to-the-body vests, cut away across the back.  Etro Etro’s S/S 2023 menswear collection marked the final outing for Kean Etro after the announcement that Italian designer Marco de Vincenzo would take over as creative director this September (for now, De Vincenzo watched on from the front row). Before the show, each attendee was read a poem over the phone in lieu of a physical invitation; here, the collection riffed on what the notes described as poetry’s power to evoke the ‘utopian’. In practice, this meant a collection both poetical and sensual: billowing feather-light kaftans in the house’s signature prints and languid tailoring met skimpy swimwear and abbreviated mini shorts. It was a convincing offering for the season – particularly desirable in the weekend’s high-30s heat – and a fitting send-off for a designer who has defined Etro menswear for over two decades. Prada A paper-white set, evocative of the walls of a house, replete with giant windows and crisply folded gingham curtains, provided the backdrop for Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ latest collection (in keeping with the theme, guests, including current campaign star Jeff Goldblum, sat on stools crafted from cardboard). The collection itself, titled ‘Prada Choices’, was centred on the act of curating one’s own style – ‘the juxtaposition of elements and garments, fashioning an impression, creating style’.  As such, the designers looked towards archetypal menswear garments – among them the suit and mackintosh jacket  – and fabrics, like denim and leather. They noted that the collection’s energy came from shifts and juxtapositions; the classic suit sat next to a mini leather short and matching vest, for example, and discrete four-button overcoats next to stone-washed double-denim. ‘The garments are classic, but their mix contradicts, making them exciting and new,’ said Simons in a pre-prepared quote. Miuccia Prada added: ‘So much that is the base is really a conceptual choice – a coat, jeans, a suit. They appear simple but are the result of a process… It is a combination of a long process of design and decision, and then of instinct. It is a matter of style.’ Stay tuned for more Wallpaper* coverage from Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023 §
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White Cube at Arley Hall: contemporary sculpture meets the English country house garden

Arley Hall and Gardens, a stately home in Cheshire, north-west England, is famed for its Jacobean Revival architecture and its picturesque landscape, created over 270 years by successive Viscounts Ashbrook and their families. To these attractions, it can now add an impressive display of contemporary sculpture, courtesy of White Cube. The London- and Hong Kong-based gallery has selected Arley’s grounds as the venue for its first-ever outdoor sculpture exhibition, which includes 12 modern and contemporary artists from its roster, and runs until 29 August 2022. ‘At the same time as being a symbol of continuity, history and stability, gardens are continually changing and evolving,’ says Susanna Greeves, senior director at White Cube of her inspiration for the display. ‘This is a theme that we had in mind as we took on the task of placing contemporary art in this already very carefully curated setting. We thought about the ideas of nature and order, the tropes of the English country house garden, and how we might play with and subvert those.’  Tracey Emin, White Cube at Arley Hall, until 29 August 2022. Photo © White Cube (Theo Christelis) Antony Gormley, White Cube at Arley Hall, until 29 August 2022, Photo © White Cube (Theo Christelis) Among the more ambitious installations is Tracey Emin’s Surrounded by You (2017), initially created for the artist’s solo exhibition at Château La Coste and inspired by Mont Sainte-Victoire, not far from the Provençal art destination and a recurring subject of Cezanne’s paintings. Seen from another angle, it bears a resemblance to a reclining female nude, a signature Emin motif. Its alternately monumental and sensual form is not an easy match for the pristine hedges and manicured lawns adjacent, but it makes a memorable statement nonetheless. Similarly impressive in scale, the late Greek artist Takis’ kinetic sculpture, Aeolian (1983), measuring 4.5m tall, towers over a field of wildflowers. At the top, a pair of hemispheres rotate gently on an axis, suggesting a modern radar picking up signals from afar and disrupting our vision of rural idyll.   Beyond an untitled cedar pavilion by Danh Vo (2020) – a modernist version of Qin Dynasty architecture, which previously stood outside White Cube’s gallery in Bermondsey, London and has been integrated into its new home with planting by Arley’s gardeners – it’s the smaller works that better respond to the present landscape.  Takis, White Cube at Arley Hall, until 29 August 2022. Photo © White Cube (Theo Christelis) Notably, a trio of Antony Gormley’s anthropomorphic Domain sculptures (2003), made from stainless steel bars that terminate at the perimeter of the body, perch on 17th-century garden walls, appearing and fading with changing weather conditions in a poetic ode to transience.  Classical statuary is often placed where it might draw attention to a fully orchestrated view; in a prime spot along Arley’s Furlong Walk, where one might expect a nymph, Greeves has installed a radical work by Canadian artist David Altmejd. L’heure (2016) depicts a figure in contrapposto whose head is formed of hands cast from the sculptor’s own: ‘It’s almost as if the sculpture is making itself or unmaking itself,’ says Greeves. Equally well-situated is a recent example of Marguerite Humeau’s ‘sculpture-elixirs’ – imagined plants that are intended to resurrect bygone medicinal traditions. Greeves has placed it near Arley’s Kitchen Garden: ‘I liked the idea that it refers to an earlier tradition of the great house growing medicinal plants,’ she says. The full title of the work is as evocative as its placement: Noxcalidus, The intense heat on the skin of a sleeping person, as if all their secret delusions were becoming vapour. Inspired by the Poppy’s milk that induces deep sleep and intense dreams, and connects us to a primordial consciousness or cosmic times (2022). Marguerite Humeau, White Cube at Arley Hall, until 29 August 2022, Photo © White Cube (Theo Christelis) Meanwhile, Mona Hatoum’s Inside Out (concrete) (2019), a waist-height spherical work covered in a circuitous pattern that resembles the lobes of the brain, occupies a small clearing in The Grove (an informal garden in a woodland setting), as though an alien seed pod about to take root. A large swathe of The Grove is dedicated to the work of Isamu Noguchi, represented by White Cube since 2021. Glistening gently in the summer sun, each of the sculptures in hot-dipped galvanised steel has an alluring silhouette, ranging from the majestic peaks and valleys of Rain Mountain to the Venus of Willendorf-like Goddess (both 1982-3). But the star of the show is the bright red Play Sculpture (c.1965-80). Around the 1970s, the Japanese-American sculptor had the idea of connecting standard sections of industrial sewer pipe into an undulating loop. The results are whimsical and striking, and just as Noguchi intended, visitors to Arley are invited to clamber around, or otherwise sit on the structure for a spot of rest. Dynamic in form and democratic in spirit, this is White Cube at Arley Hall at its best. § Mona Hatoum, White Cube at Arley Hall, until 29 August 2022. Photo © White Cube (Theo Christelis) Cerith Wyn Evans and Rachel Kneebone, White Cube at Arley Hall, until 29 August 2022, Photo © White Cube (Theo Christelis) Isamu Noguchi, White Cube at Arley Hall, until 29 August 2022. Photo © White Cube (Theo Christelis) Virginia Overton, White Cube at Arley Hall, until 29 August 2022. Photo © White Cube (Theo Christelis)  
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Latest Hermès perfume offers a radically new approach to fragrance

Christine Nagel thinks she has the best job in the world. To hear her talk about it, you might think so too. The in-house perfumer for Hermès has complete creative freedom at the storied house to conceive new perfumes – the latest of which is Terre D’Hermès Eau Givrée. There are no limits on time or price and, importantly, no market tests.  This is a rare privilege in the fragrance industry. Market tests are generally fundamental to how perfume is made and sold, with perfumers habitually crafting two versions of a scent to be tested on consumers and then modified to be as widely appealing as possible. Christine Nagel. Photography: Sylvie Becquet. For example, market tests generally reveal that people like feminine perfumes to have gourmand notes and consequently, most feminine perfumes made in the past 15 years have sugary or caramel flavours. The result is a wealth of commercially successful but predictable perfumes. The downside of always giving people what the tests perceive the majority wants is that it removes the opportunity for them to experience new scents. In Nagel’s opinion, market tests are the industry’s ultimate impediment to innovation.  For Nagel, the success of Terre D’Hermès Eau Givrée is about more than creating an iconic scent for the brand’s fragrance catalogue. It is about proving to the industry at large that there is an appetite for fragrances that challenge popular preferences and ask people to push the boundaries of their preconceived tastes. In short, Nagel is looking to significantly alter our relationship with perfume.  Terre D’Hermès Eau Givrée So what is so different about Terre D’Hermès Eau Givrée? The project takes an entirely standard objective – to create a ‘fresh’ smelling perfume – and completely subverts it. Smell the new Hermès perfume on your skin and there is no denying that it has that bright uplift of any fragrance described with the word. Yet all the familiar markers – laundered linen, citrus, cut grass – are absent.  The secret is a heavy dose of juniper berries. Quite sweetly, Nagel was inspired to make juniper the heart of her fragrance when she realised that the large group of boys at family gatherings (Nagel has six children) had a preference for gin cocktails. It is, as she puts it, ‘a pleasurable taste for the young man’. Normally, juniper is used only in traces within perfume, but for the new Terre D’Hermès Eau Givrée, Nagel wanted to make it an ’overdose’.  To heighten that surprising type of freshness, she has added notes of cedrat, a citrus fruit that is like a mix of lemon and bergamot, and punchy hints of Timur pepper. The result is a fragrance that has a sharp, almost metallic freshness alongside warm, mineral notes. Christine Nagel Nagel’s signature is to create fragrances with unexpected flavour combinations, like the smoky lemon of Eau de Citron Noir or the musky rhubarb of Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate. It likely has to do with the fact that she came from a very different background than her fellow contemporary perfumers, having studied organic chemistry before becoming a perfumer.  Nagel’s interest in perfumery came relatively late in her career, when she was working as a chemist in a research lab for a fragrance and flavour company. From the window, she could see a perfumer from the lab go down to the building’s receptionist and test his perfumes on her arm. ‘All day I would see the woman smile, discuss the scent with the perfumer and then, when he left, still go on smelling the scent on her arm.’  She was inspired by seeing the intrinsic pleasure a simple spray of perfume could bring to a person and realised she wanted to become a perfumer. Her ambition was initially met with resistance. ‘The first reason,’ Nagel explains, ‘is because I’m a woman and perfumery is traditionally a masculine job. On top of that, I am not from the south of France, I am not the daughter of a perfumer and, coming from chemistry, I don’t have the typical background.’ However, while she wasn’t accepted to create scents, Nagel began working to identify the formulations of past fragrances, simply by smelling them (there is now a sophisticated machine used to do this). She was so skilled that she eventually realised her ambition, becoming a perfumer and working her way up to her current position at Hermès.  ‘For many years I never spoke about my background,’ says Nagel, ‘because it is not the elegant backstory most perfumers have. But since working for Hermès, I have discovered the fabulous respect the brand has for artisans and craft. Now, I am proud to say that I am an artisan. That I have a different approach to perfumery and take risks. ‘I think my responsibility is to create another way of creating perfume,’ she continues. ‘It’s very important to me for the future of Hermès perfumery and, I cross my fingers, because if this type of creation is a success, it is good for the future of perfumery as a whole because it opens a new way.’ §
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duminică, 19 iunie 2022

Rick Joy draws on context for this equestrian club in Mexico

Part of the region’s refined One&Only Mandarina Private Homes, this new equestrian club at Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit was designed by the Tucson-based American architecture studio of Rick Joy. The architect, who is also behind the estate’s lush range of private homes, drew on the expansive Mexican West Coast’s rich landscape, colours and materials. The project, known as The Mandarina Polo & Equestrian Club, aims to provide an architectural environment for horses – and their riders – that is just as high quality as the domestic designs on offer.  ‘Our intent is that those who visit will sense the rare ancient timelessness of nature and the uniqueness of this place,’ says Joy, who collaborated with RLH Properties and architects of record from Mexican firms (FRB Arquitectura, JSa, Taller de Arquitectura, and Broissin Architects) on varied portions of the expansive, wider development. ‘The site is awe-inspiring. Impressive in the richness of its layers of history, geology, and nature; with the volcanic mountain base rising from the ocean yet open to the horizon; covered by the dense jungle expanse. Once there, one will be immersed in this sensory experience of place within the jungle and present with the ocean at once.’ The architect, who is equally well known for his growing portfolio of subtly powerful homes, such as New England’s The Bayhouse, as well as the iconic Amangiri resort and spa in the pristine landscape of the Utah desert, worked with his signature pared-down approach and tactile, at once dramatic and sensitive volumes, to compose a space that feels monumental but also considered and gentle.  The complex is made out of concrete, local stone and wood – all materials that can be locally sourced and feel at home in the specific Mexican context. The positioning and orientation were largely dictated by existing trees on site, which with their mature foliage and deep roots were to be respected and saved during construction. Views, light, and a sense of spatial richness inside allow for a comfortable riding experience and a fitting and functional home for the animals. Meanwhile, large openings and a direct connection to the green, rolling hills and mountains around the site ensure nature takes centre stage in this equestrian club. §
http://dlvr.it/SSV28C

M2 MacBook Air wallpaper inspirations

As always, Apple has incredible M2 MacBook Air advertising wallpapers and we always want them for our iPhones.
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Citroën’s latest edition of the Ami EV is a beach-ready runaround

Buoyed by the positive reception afforded its diminutive My Ami Buggy concept from December 2021, Citroën has taken the opportunity to capitalise on the summer heatwave with a strictly limited-edition production version.  Just 50 examples of the My Ami Buggy will be available, sold online from 8 August 2022 through a dedicated website. We’ve got a lot of time for the Citroën Ami. All-electric, ultra-diminutive, it’s enjoyed cult success in its native France ever since it was transformed from concept to reality a couple of years ago. Clever sales and lease initiatives are combined with the delight of being able to scoot around urban centres in spaces that are off-limits to almost every other kind of car.  (Very) small businesses can even get a commercial version, the My Ami Cargo, above This new edition is a glorious nod to France’s burgeoning beach car culture, epitomised by one of the Ami’s distant ancestors, the Citroën Méhari. This cult car was built on the 2CV platform and featured bold-coloured plastic bodywork and a wholly optional roof. It was joined by the Renault 4 Plein Air (an electrified version of which is also available), and scores of these eccentric machines survive in beach and island communities around France.  The original Citroën Ami The My Ami Buggy blends khaki bodywork with stabs of sizzling yellow – particularly on the modular dashboard. It eschews the regular (albeit symmetrical) doors in favour of open sides and metal tubes, and the UV-treated canvas roof is a classic nod to beach buggies old and new and can be removed completely and stowed in the car. The Citroën My Ami Buggy shares the original Citroën Ami colourful interior, above Citroën’s design team have had fun detailing the My Ami Buggy as if it were a piece of technical equipment, part military, part utility, all entertainment. The pun in the name must have been irresistible. The diminutive 14in wheels are finished in gold, and the whole ensemble looks a little more patinated and road-worn than the ‘standard’ car. Even if you don’t snare one of these khaki-hued beach machines, the two-seater Ami is still a world apart from even the smallest EV, offering up a distinctive and defiantly different mode of transport. §
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Carolina Bucci imbues the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with rainbow hues

Audemars Piguet’s third collaboration with Carolina Bucci marks the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary in sleek style, with the limited edition Royal Oak Selfwinding rethought in black ceramic. In this newest piece, Bucci turns her attention to the dial, imbuing it with a rainbow of colours. The prismatic effect is created using the tapisserie technique, where little squares are intricately laid on top of the brass dial plate in order to create a prism of colour. ‘I felt like I had unfinished business with the famous tapisserie,’ Bucci says on why she chose to work with this technique. ‘It is one of the main codes of the original 1972 design. In my previous collaboration, I had eliminated it completely – trying to find a perfect counterpoint to the complex finish of Frosted Gold. I loved the way the mirror dial worked within the octagonal bezel, but here I think we found an amazing blend – a tapisserie that appears and disappears in different light.’ Patterns of squares vary from piece to piece, making each rainbow design unique. For Bucci, the result had to find the right balance between subtlety and drama in the way the dial refracts the light. ‘Too much of one and the effect would be under or overwhelming,’ she adds. ‘I read the phrase “opulent subtlety” the other day in a review of the watch. I think that is a good way to describe my intentions.’ The dial makes a brilliant foil for the clean and distinctive design of the case, accentuated only with subtle design details such as the pop of hexagonal pink gold screws against the smooth black ceramic of the dial. ‘The Royal Oak is the perfect platform for experimentation,’ says Bucci. ‘It is such a well-known design with various clear codes – the tapisserie, the octagonal bezel and its screws, and the tapered bracelet. Because it is so recognisable, it means as a designer you can push and pull those codes in different directions to achieve a totally fresh look.’ §
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Pretty in pink: pink make-up for alternative summer looks

There is nothing particularly groundbreaking about pink make-up and beauty products for summer, but the latest launches from three brands – Byredo, 19/99, and Hermès – are offering an innovative new take on a classic.  Three fresh takes on pink make-up Hermès Hermesistible tinted care oils Hermès‘ new Hermesistible tinted care oils come in six shades that range from the cantaloupe-coloured Beige Sapotille to the bright berry Pourpre Camarine. Unsurprisingly, Hermès has considered every aspect of Hermesistible’s design, including its scent. As Hermès’ in-house perfumer Christine Nagel says: ‘Hermesistible is the known unknown, an enchanting and reassuring surprise. Through these colour scents, I have sought to share memories and emotions, without regressing into the past. I have sought to combine intuitively the notion of extreme quality with pleasure, to express both joy and comfort.’ Formulated with 97 per cent natural ingredients to moisturise lips, the oils have a subtle touch of colour and brightening gloss that makes them an ideal companion for casual summer beauty routines, and a low-key take on pink-make-up. Byredo colour sticks Meanwhile, Byredo’s colour sticks offer something a bit bolder. Designed to be used anywhere on the face, the new sticks come in Demerara, a dusty pink inspired by brown sugar, Frosting, a glossy rose glittering with gold sparkles, and Marzipan, an electric mauve with a shiny finish. The colour sticks’ versatility encourages play and pink make-up experimentation. Byredo founder Ben Gorham told us when the line first launched: ’I found that in the beauty industry, it was very dictating, it was very linear in saying, “buy this or this, and look like this”, which I didn’t relate to. So my idea was not just to go paint a picture of my peers. It was to be inclusive, to the point of saying that this can be anything to anybody. That’s how we approached it from the start.’ 19/99 precision colour pencils The Precision Colour Pencils from vegan beauty brand 19/99 are likewise designed for use on lips, eyes, or cheeks, with vibrant peach shade Fiore and 1990s-style muddy pink Neutra providing high-impact colour with all-day staying power. They are some of the best pencils we’ve tried, easily ranking among Wallpaper’s beauty favourites. §
http://dlvr.it/SSRncC

sâmbătă, 18 iunie 2022

Copenhagen’s Designmuseum Danmark reopens after two-year renovation

Redesigning a design museum carries with it the weight of legacy and contemporary expectations. For Designmuseum Danmark this was especially apposite as the museum, its furniture and entire inventory were designed by the grandfather of Danish modern Kaare Klint in the 1920s. The architect and professor remade an 18th-century rococo hospital drawn by the king’s royal architects as a showcase for quality design and the new home of a museum established in 1890. The strength of Klint’s architectural scheme was the way he created exhibition spaces while retaining the flow of rooms in the single-storey complex, all of which wrap around a central courtyard. Floors of Norwegian Gjellebæk stone tiles and walls rendered with a grey mortar mix meant the space offered a timeless and restrained backdrop. The materiality, clean pure lines with classic references and craftsmanship ensured Klint’s design has endured for almost a century.  Designmuseum Danmark: building on the legacy of a master Museum shop by OEO Studio When it came to the most comprehensive renewal since the museum opened in 1926, the starting point was Klint’s principles. ‘How do you build on the legacy of a master?’ says OEO Studio’s head of design and founding partner Thomas Lykke of the Copenhagen studio’s remake of the shop and the café. ‘We embraced this idea as a design driver for this project,’ honouring Klint’s work while also creating new, exciting and highly functional public spaces that retain a real sense of place, he says.  The shop, relocated to the entrance, is a deft combination of classic elements such as glass cabinets designed by Klint and new custom-designed, blue-grey-stained built-in cabinets with details that echo the vintage pieces. In the café, OEO reintroduced the Le Klint ‘101’ pendant lamp in paper designed by Klint and created a new ceiling fitting in brass and folded paper as an homage to the master inspired by the architecture of the building. Photography: Luka Hesselberg Museum director Anne-Louise Sommer says the two years spent undertaking the renovation were used to rethink the entire museum-going experience. As with the architectural revamp, it prizes the heritage but also articulates contemporary values and ideas. The museum opens on Sunday 19 June 2022 with eight exhibitions covering the spectrum and designed by notable local practices. ‘The Future is Present’, focusing on how design solutions respond to today’s challenges, such as climate and identity, was created by Danish architecture studio Spacon & X. Inspired by the idea of a Wunderkammer, ‘Wonder’ displays the museum’s oldest, rarest and most eclectic collections. A highlight is a room dedicated to tsubas, exquisitely decorated disc-like guards between the blade and the handle on a samurai sword, of which the museum has one of the world’s finest collections. Amassed by Dr Hugo Halberstadt, the collection was originally housed in a cabinet made by Arts and Crafts designer Johan Rohde in lemon wood and ebony. In the 1950s it was transferred to a larger drawer cabinet by Klint. This cabinet is installed in the room along with a new piece created by Copenhagen-based Mentze Ottenstein to house a second, never exhibited collection. Drawing on the materials of the Rohde cabinet and the detailing of Klint’s, Mathias Mentze and Alexander Ottenstein used ebony paired with walnut, making a table vitrine so the full collection can be seen from all angles.  ‘Wonder’ ‘We are interested in the way objects migrate and become part of collections, until they end up somewhere else,’ says Mentze. ‘The ideas they hold too, as these objects have travelled from Japan to Europe, bought in places like Parisian antique dealers’, and brought back to Copenhagen where this particular collection has inspired generations of designers and artists.’ It’s an apt analogy for the entire museum. A place, says Sommers, where design, more than ever, can create connections between historic achievements and contemporary global and national challenges. ‘Design is a prism through which we can understand human need, human dreams, and human behaviour in various eras.’ § ‘The Future Present’ ‘The Magic of Form’ ‘The Magic of Form’ ‘TABLE-BE-SET!‘        
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vineri, 17 iunie 2022

‘Be an ass’: David Shrigley and Globe-Trotter unveil witty new suitcase collaboration

David Shrigley has something of a way with words. With each off-the-cuff quip, eavesdropping-style phrase and drawing rendered in his inimitable scrawl, often-dark subjects are tempered with cartooned whimsy; Shrigley has invented his own unfiltered, deadpan brand of social commentary, and the world can’t seem to get enough.  Shrigley’s distinctive humour – both universally accessible and microscopically niche – found in public sculpture, works on paper, gallery installations, and a multitude of editions (mugs, rugs, tea towels, and even inflatable versions of his illustrations), are also deployed in top-tier brand collaborations, including a carte blanche with Ruinart, a limited-edition collection for Sunspel and a banana-themed swimming pool for Soho House’s new Brighton outpost.  Now, the visual wordsmith has turned his verse to a new collection for British luxury travel lifestyle brand Globe-Trotter, known for handcrafted luggage and leather collections. The new limited-edition series features newly commissioned David Shrigley artworks presented on the exterior of their iconic four-wheel carry-on cases. Shrigley takes Globe-Trotter’s ivory-vulcanised fibreboard case as his canvas, with the cobalt blue corners studded with brass rivets functioning as a frame. Original works such as Untitled (Be an Ass) and Untitled (baggage) pop from the case in electric azure paint.  As the sun-seeking season begins to pick up pace following a global grinding halt, making a bold statement en route is a must-have travel essential.  And what could turn more heads in the airport terminal – prime territory for both eavesdropping and observational commentary – than a bag that reads: ‘I have some baggage, but it’s not much of a problem’?  Ideal for those who prefer travelling light – in comedy and luggage – both designs feature on Globe-Trotter’s four-wheel suitcase in a carry-on size.  Each case will be part of a limited edition of five and is available from 18 June 2022 online and in the Globe-Trotter flagship store at London’s Burlington Arcade, where the original commissioned artworks are also displayed on the first floor. §  
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Pitti Uomo 102: everything you need to know, from Wales Bonner to Ann Demeulemeester

‘Pitti Island’ was the theme of this season’s Pitti Uomo, marking the 102nd edition of the historic menswear trade fair held in Florence’s 14th-century Fortezza da Basso – and a series of other dramatic locations across the city. Organisers said they thought about the island as ‘a physical and spiritual point, especially for meeting and exchanging ideas… continuous exchanges of spirits and paths’, a description pertinent to this year’s fair where attendance rose to (almost) capacity once again, after the rise in the Omicron variant disrupted the fair’s January edition.  Proceedings began on Tuesday evening with perhaps the season’s biggest draw: guest designer Grace Wales Bonner, who travelled from London to show her S/S 2023 collection at the Palazzo Riccardi Medici. ‘I was thinking about the history of Black presence in Florence, and for me it was important to make an intervention within the history, to acknowledge a very sophisticated presence within Black heritage,’ the designer said of the richly crafted collection, which looked towards the figure of Alessandro de Medici, Duke of Florence, who spent much of his rule in the Renaissance palazzo and is said to have been born to a servant of African descent (as such, he is considered modern western Europe’s first Black head of state).  Backstage at Wales Bonner S/S 2023 Wales Bonner drew on elements of handcraft from across the world in a collection which traversed space and time – whether Anderson & Sheppard tailoring from London’s Savile row, intricate Indian macramé or hand-dyed fabrics made in Burkina Faso. After the show, she said it was inspired by the principle of Sankofa, a concept derived from the Akan people of Ghana, which means that in order to progress in the future, one must remember the past (it is often symbolised by a bird flying forwards with its head turned backwards). ‘That is the spirit of the collection,’ she said. ‘It’s about taking something from the past in order to pass it forward and make it useful for the future.’  Such a concept could equally be applied to this season’s other guest designer, Antwerp-born Ann Demeulemeester, who drew from the past to curate an exhibition of her work from 1992–2013 in the city’s cavernous Stazione Leopolda. Across the 40 looks, which spanned the years she was at her eponymous label, Demeulemeester demonstrated the various hallmarks which continue to influence today (languid silhouettes, a dark sensibility, sensual details). Indeed, viewed together, there was a feeling that the clothing could be from a singular collection, like time had collapsed – such is the distinctness of Demeulemeester’s vision – though a multiplicity of details suggested the designer’s desire to hone her craft over the years she spent at the label. (The exhibition coincides with the recent acquisition of the brand by Claudio Antonioli, who had made it clear he intends to take the label back to these roots).  Ann Demeulemeester ‘Curious Wishes Feathered the Air’ exhibition at Pitti Uomo 102 ‘Florence and Pitti are finally ready to celebrate Ann Demeulemeester’s work,’ said Lapo Cianchi, Pitti’s director of communications, referencing the fact the event was originally due to take place in January. ‘A story that began 40 years ago in Antwerp, and which is today strengthened by an acquisition by Claudio Antonioli: an approach that, between reclamation and autonomy, highlights the distinctive and persistent traits of Ann Demeulemeester’s fashion.’  Elsewhere, in the fair itself, various brands posited an innovative approach to the season ahead. Among them, AlphaTauri, the fashion label founded by RedBull, who introduced its S/S 2023 collection titled ‘Private Island’. Presented in a dedicated structure in Fortezza da Basso, it was defined by a broad and bright colour palette – shades of pink, mango, and blue – which the brand said was inspired by ‘sun-kissed’ escapes. Each of the garments demonstrated AlphaTauri’s near-scientific approach to fabric production, with waterproof jerseys, bonded linings, high-tech performance yarns and technical knits giving the collection a unique texture, utilised to create silhouettes which sit between sportswear and the everyday. AlphaTauri at Pitti Uomo 102 Herno, meanwhile, divided its collection into three sections: ‘Core’, ‘Luxury’ and ‘Fashion’. ‘Core’ comprises the pieces it believes are the brand’s ‘centre and essence’, such as trench, car coats and blazers in signature fabrics; ‘Luxury’, a wardrobe crafted in the most refined materials; and ‘Fashion’, Herno’s most contemporary offering, defined by vivid shots of colour and blown-up versions of the Double-H logo (relaxed silhouettes, including a lightweight nylon bomber with an oversized fit, inspired by American collegiate sportswear). Herno said it saw these worlds as ‘interchangeable’, for the man whose ‘worlds rotate’.  Brunello Cucinelli returned to the fair after sitting out last season, coming back in spectacular fashion with a banquet in the gardens of Serre Torrigiani to celebrate the beginning of menswear month. At the fair, the Italian brand showed a typically luxurious offering for S/S 2023, placing a focus on integrating its classic tailoring into a more casual wardrobe – a suit might be worn with a polo shirt, or espadrilles, for example – and introducing black to the collection for the first time (a black leather biker jacket, in particular, showed the potential of the colour in Cucinelli’s hands). Herno S/S 2023 Waste Yarn Project, the brainchild of Siri Johansen, offered a more low-key, but no less appealing approach to creating clothing for the future – each piece is crafted from surplus and leftover yarns from clothing production in Shanghai (this season, she had to source from Portugal, due to lockdowns in the Chinese city). For S/S 2023, she adds a series of accessories, crafted in Bulgaria – home-spun woven handbags and hats – which the designer said were part of her attempt to expand her label’s offering, and will no doubt please her growing number of followers. In this vein, sustainability was one of the fair’s key tenets with a dedicated section in the fair’s main space; another was a showcase of emerging designers from Ukraine, titled ‘Ukrainian Fashion Now’. The season’s final guest designer was Soulland, the Danish label that this season united with Li-Ning, a performance-running label known particularly for its sneakers. As such, various futuristic footwear offerings were made for the season – whether the ‘Yun You Slay’ slide, a chunky ergonomic slip-on, or the chunky ‘Exceed Infinity’ sneaker. The collaboration was debuted in a showcase of Soulland’s S/S 2023 collection on the monolithic outdoor amphitheatre of Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, just as the sun was setting (the second half of the collection will be shown at Copenhagen Fashion Week later this year). Waste Yarn Project S/S 2023 The week ended with a trip to the Gucci Garden – the house’s store, museum and restaurant in Palazzo della Mercanzia on Florence’s Piazza della Signoria – to celebrate the opening of Giardino 25, an all-day café at the location. Cocktails were served by Giorgio Bargiani, the award-winning director of mixology at London’s Connaught Bar – a perfect pit-stop en route to Milan. §  
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Tom of Finland Foundation group show brings erotic art to Venice

In the decade before his death, Finland-born Touko Laaksonen (1920 – 1991) – best known by the artistic pseudonym Tom of Finland – lived in Los Angeles’ Echo Park neighbourhood, where he spent the final years of his life adding to his prolific catalogue of sexually liberated, libidinally charged illustrations of beefed-up men, which first appeared in Bob Mizer’s homoerotic magazine Physique Pictorial in the 1950s.  The Echo Park home – now owned by the Tom of Finland Foundation, which the artist founded with friend, lover, and business partner Durk Dehner in 1984 – is known as ‘Tom House’ and has become an elysium for queer and erotic artists from around the world, who make a pilgrimage to the Los Angeles address to hone their craft in a series of residencies. As such, Tom House’s 14 rooms claim more than 3,500 works of erotic art and over 100,000 pieces of ephemera, memorabilia and objects from both Tom himself and those who have called the property home over the years – a fittingly expansive collection for the artist’s own outsized legacy. This past weekend, thousands of miles away in the backstreets of Venice’s northern Cannaregio district, a characteristically leather-clad Dehner – who remains president of the Tom of Finland Foundation – found himself back in Tom House’s living room, albeit a recreation created for the foundation’s new group exhibition ‘AllTogether’ at Studio Cannaregio (23 April – 26 June 2022), supported by Italian fashion label Diesel and curated in association with Paris’ The Community gallery. Around Dehner, objects capture the home’s heady mix of the erotic and domestic: a nude photograph of a man in the reflection of a bathroom mirror, a plastic phallus, mugs, figurines, a roll-along drinks trolley with a single bottle of Tom of Finland-branded vodka on top.  Recreation of Tom House’s living room at ‘AllTogether’ by Tom of Finland Foundation and The Community Drawing on the foundation’s history of both preserving the work of queer artists – many of whom faced discrimination and legal consequences in their time for their creations – and promoting a new generation of erotic art, ‘AllTogether’ attempts to capture the unique spirit of those who have passed through Tom House in the past three decades, alongside the pioneers who came before them. Spanning the 1940s to the present day, the exhibition explores Tom’s unique and pervasive legacy, interspersing his own illustrations with the varying works of artists who have come in his wake. ‘The challenge of creating the exhibition was to have the impact and effect of coming to Tom House,’ says Dehner. ‘We hope that people here get that same feeling of home.’  Numbering around 80 works across mediums – painting, illustration, sculpture, photography, film and printed ephemera – ‘AllTogether’ coincides with the 59th edition of the Venice Biennale, which returns this year after a three-year hiatus post-pandemic. The exhibition also marks the first time that some works from the Tom of Finland Foundation’s diverse permanent collection have been presented to the public outside of Tom House, though Dehner notes that it’s not the first time Tom’s own work has appeared in Venice during the Biennale; in 2009, Scandinavian duo Elmgreen & Dragset included a number of his illustrations in their Nordic Pavilion. ‘It’s typical that he would lead the pack here. Tom’s the head of the family, the grandaddy, and now the whole extended family gets to come to the Biennale and be here with him.’ In fact, such an exhibition has been over three decades in the making, first discussed at a time when the artist was still alive and transforming the Echo Park home into the community space it is today. ‘We always dreamed about having an exhibition, which would be all of his friends’ art, and all of his art together, and out in the world,’ says Dehner. It is unlikely that Tom would have been able to imagine how far his own influence would extend in the time that followed, though; as Dehner says, in his lifetime he was an artist working truly at the margins, a large bulk of his output created secretly in Finland during a time when homosexuality was still illegal in the country (now, he is something of a Finnish institution, his illustrations placed on a series of stamps by the Finnish Postal Service in 2014).  Tom of Finland, Untitled, c.1966-1990 © Tom of Finland Foundation ‘Tom was creating work in the 1950s, and homosexuality was outlawed [in Finland] until 1971. We went through a lot – the fact is, when the foundation got started, Aids came about and so we had to take the back seat and take care of our own in order to be able to survive all these years. The foundation was discriminated against for grants, but I think now society is willing to see what our contribution is. These works are something to celebrate and enjoy, to pleasure oneself.’ What is notable about ‘AllTogether’ is Tom’s marathon-like cultural endurance, which has inspired whole generations of queer artists to embrace the erotic in their own life and work (as well as spawning various exhibitions, books, even a 2017 feature film). Like Dehner himself – in 1976, while a young man in his twenties, he encountered one of Tom’s illustrations in the Spike bar, New York. Immediately struck, he tore the poster from the wall and asked a friend – the artist Dom Orejudos, aka Etienne, whose work also appears in the exhibition – for Tom’s address, later writing him an admiring ‘fan letter’ (their relationship would see them meet in Los Angeles in 1977).  ‘It seemed to affect me in a way that art never had before, an emotional way. There was something in it that made it feel like he had done these pictures for us, for gay boys. That was important in a world where nothing felt like it was made for you.’  Installation view, ‘AllTogether’ by Tom of Finland Foundation and The Community Several years later, in a small town outside of Bruges, Belgium, a young Glenn Martens – the creative director of exhibition partner Diesel, who also helms Belgium-based label Y/Project – found a similar feeling of belonging in one of Tom’s illustrations, joining a long line of fashion designers who have noted the influence, both implicit and explicit, of the artist on their own work. (Clothes were surprisingly important to Tom, particularly the erotic charge of leather and denim – Dehner recounts that he would say ‘his men look so much more sexy in clothes than they do naked’.) ‘Tom of Finland is one of those artists that you encounter who helps you understand your sexuality, your place in society,’ says Martens, who also came to Venice for the opening. ‘I grew up in a very provincial town where there was no gay world, but thanks to symbols like this, you also start accepting that actually it’s fine to be who you are.’  Such stories are pervasive in the exhibition itself, which connects threads of artists from around the world who have been drawn into Tom’s orbit, many of whom undertook stints at Tom House – American filmmaker and photographer Matt Lambert, Spanish illustrator Silvia Prada, and German photographer Florian Hetz among them. Some works in ‘AllTogether’ are unabashedly, exuberantly sexual – ejaculating penises, assholes exposed to the air, copulating groups of men – others more reserved, hovering on singular body parts, or darkly-lit moments of embrace.  Florian Hetz, Untitled, 2017 Dehner says it is about an appreciation of sexuality, in all its forms. ‘You don’t have to be pounding somebody to appreciate your own sexuality. It can also be about how you view other people. We’re hoping that people will relax and enjoy their own sexual desires by seeing them expressed in these ways.’  In keeping with this mood, a small capsule collection of clothing from Martens and Diesel will be adorned with various works from the exhibition – from a T-shirt to a jockstrap. ‘It’s all about the art, so we didn’t design too much,’ says Martens. ‘It’s for Pride Month, and I think a lot of brands just are trying to market for a minority when they do that. But we want to think about a community that’s still persecuted, and to actually give back and highlight these artists’ work. I always hope people who wear my clothes feel sexy and empowered, to live life to its fullest.’ Dehner says the main challenge of the exhibition was how to narrow down the foundation’s vast collection; as such, a subsequent iteration of ‘AllTogether’ will open at Paris’ The Community Centre gallery next month, featuring a new set of artworks. It means those that end up in the two exhibitions have special emotional resonance to Dehner and the foundation. On a walkthrough, he pauses in front of an illustration of a battered pair of black leather boots, from 2006. The artist is Carrington Galen – known in his work simply as ‘Dylan’ – a close friend of Tom House who created its notorious ‘Pleasure Park’ gardens, a winding trail of verdant pathways named after one of Tom’s cruising comics. In 2016, after having been diagnosed with incurable cancer, Galen chose to pass away at the house he had given his life to, in the gardens he helped to create. Dehner says he died as the sun was setting, surrounded by his Tom of Finland community.  Installation view, ‘AllTogether’ by Tom of Finland Foundation and The Community Later that evening in Venice, after dark, a crowd of people – each in some way related to the foundation, some dressed from the pages of Tom’s work – came together to celebrate the exhibition’s opening (others pooled the narrow street outside, waiting to get in). In the gallery’s courtyard, a bar had been erected; the artist Silvia Prada played at a DJ booth underneath a sign which read ‘Pleasure Park’. In keeping with Dehner’s desires, pleasure-seeking was indeed the mood: partygoers danced, chatted, drank Tom of Finland vodka. Inside, the Tom House living room filled with people, sprawled on chairs and deep in conversation – a new generation of the Tom of Finland family, gathered from around the world.  ‘Present-day artists are inspired by the generation before, they feed off each other,’ Dehner said earlier in the day. ‘At the foundation, we promote the present and future, and protect the past. That’s really what creates community and family, because family isn’t just who’s alive today – it’s where you come from, all the people came before.’ §  
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Learn product design from the field’s experts and Wallpaper*

We’ve been thrilled with the response to our new Product Design Essentials course, in partnership with Parsons School of Design. The remote learning course offers exclusive access to the design industry’s key thought leaders and figureheads, providing the expertise and inspiration to kickstart your career in design. Recently we added more brilliant designers to the course, including Brooklyn-based Nifemi Ogunro, and Eleanore Cavalli, art director of Italian furniture company Visionnaire, so don’t miss your opportunity to sign up.  Learn from the best To help inspire and inform students taking part in the course, we called on a number of leading designers we’ve worked with over the years to share their insights and experiences of building their successful careers. Contributors include structural designer Dror Benshetrit; lighting designer Lee Broom; Tucker Viemeister, inventor of the Oxo Good Grips; and industrial designer Alex Rasmussen.   Speaking about the course earlier this year, Broom told us: ‘Being a designer, maker and entrepreneur means I am able to offer advice on many aspects of the entire process, from design to actual delivery. ‘The question I am asked most often by students is: “How do I start my own business, and how do I create a brand?’’ The emphasis on designers purely designing for other brands has shifted over the years and I am interested in helping people begin that journey on the road to doing their own thing and sustaining it.’ Alongside these internationally respected designers, we have our own Wallpaper* editors – including Sarah Douglas, editor-in-chief; editor TF Chan; and design editor Rosa Bertoli – and experienced design critics taking part in the course, as well as Parsons School of Design faculty members. Download the contributors’ brochure here  Covering everything from prototyping to manufacturing and marketing, the course has been curated with the aid of education platform Yellowbrick, and offers an excellent introduction to the world of product design and the creative process behind it. Expert instructors draw on their personal experience to offer insight into different career paths. Enjoy a sneak preview of the course below:  Sign up today! In order to share the Product Design Essentials course with as many people as possible, it has been designed as a fully remote, online course, available worldwide and including comprehensive on-demand content and learning resources. Those who pass the course will receive a certificate of completion from Parsons School of Design, the top-ranked art and design school in the US.  To get a feel for the course, download the full catalogue complete with FAQs here.   Like the sound of it? Sign up now §
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Minimalism and transparency rule at Luxottica’s Digital Factory in Milan

An industrial restoration has resulted in the newly refreshed home of eyewear market leader Luxottica in Italy. The project, the brand’s Digital Factory, was designed by Milan-based architecture studio Park Associati, and effortlessly blends minimalist architecture, swathes of glass, and 21st-century manufacturing and workspace.  The building is located in the city’s trendy via Tortona area, and used to be occupied by General Electric. When Luxottica decided to move in, the company reached out to the architects for a redesign, bringing the complex to contemporary standards but at the same time, maintaining its feeling of history and utility, and sense of space and light throughout. Park Associati kept the original volumes and configuration, focusing on sharpening existing shapes and lines, while upgrading facilities and sustainability elements.   Indeed, an eco approach towards sustainable architecture was key in the spatial reinvention, and the team followed a LEED quality and sustainability protocol – aiming for a Gold certification. A strong connection to open-air areas with gardens (such as the ground floor’s green patios), as well as planting inside, also ensures there’s a strong presence of nature throughout.  Transparency played a key role in the redesign – both in physical terms (the building is an ode to glazed expanses, connecting vistas inside and out, and bathing the interior with light from almost all directions), as well as symbolically, in particular with the ground level’s public aspect. Luxottica’s showroom and further commercial spaces are located here, while the Digital Lab – a high-tech innovation centre – is situated on the first floor. Apart from creating a sophisticated, modern workspace for Luxottica, with interiors composed in collaboration with Storagemilano, the Digital Factory also helps activate its wider neighbourhood, bringing a green element and considered retail to this corner of Milan, adding to its vibrant suburban environment. §
http://dlvr.it/SSMJ17

joi, 16 iunie 2022

With room for your belongings, this Prada bucket hat will see you through summer

‘An uncanny summer escape’ was how Prada described its S/S 2022 menswear film, seeing models emerge from a serpentine red-walled tunnel directly onto the idyllic beaches and rocky coves of Capo Carbonara, a peninsula at the south-eastern tip of Sardinia, Italy. The clothing – poplin rompers rolled up to the thighs; jacquard vests, akin to 1920s swimming singlets; micro shorts; cocooning hoodies, the texture and colour of beach towels – captured the ephemeral joy of a summer holiday, cited by co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as an inspiration for the season. ‘[It’s about] a sense of the utopian, the ideal of hope, positivity. To expose yourself to nature, to go to the beach, it’s freedom,’ said the former. ‘That is really a primary need – an intellectual need, too.’ An array of accessories complemented the collection – striped terry-cloth slides, an octopus earring, colourful triangular shoulder bags – though it was the reimagined bucket hat that drew the eye. Forsaking the necessity for more unwieldy beach bags, its almond shape provides room for the essentials: two slits on each side to hold the arms of your sunglasses and a single triangle-shaped zip pocket on the back with just enough room for keys, coins, or earbuds, keeping your valuables close even as you head down into the water (features which prove equally efficient for a hands-free commute). As such, its form-meets-function design recalls the beginnings of Miuccia Prada’s tenure at the label, and her 1984 ‘Vela’ backpack, the first in lightweight nylon – a distinctly utilitarian approach to luxury; a classic design, reinvented. §
http://dlvr.it/SSK2N2

New design exhibition reimagines the table five ways

Lasting memories of design weeks past often involve a convivial experience around a table outside of the main event set-pieces or shows. Those unscripted moments when people of like minds from all over the world come together over a shared passion for design.  With that in mind, &Tradition made tables the main game for a hybrid art-design exhibition, ‘Studies of a Table’, during 3 Days of Design 2022. And not just any tables, but five created by studios and designers from five different countries to push the boundaries of what is considered archetypal as well as express something about their origin, through using local materials, techniques and artisans. Logistical achievements aside – one table weighing 600kg was shipped to Denmark from India – the tables became the medium for cross-cultural, cross-disciplinary exchanges.  Left, ‘Khokhar’ table by Studio Raw Material. Right, ‘Table Cloth’ table by All the Way to Paris ‘Everything happens and evolves around the dining table – stories are told, strong thrusts shaped, relationships deepen or vanish, and in the centre, a table cloth with food and wine,’ say Tanja Vibe and Petra Olsson Gendt of Copenhagen-based All the Way to Paris of their ‘Table Cloth’ table. A departure from the Danish wood tradition, the table is made of aluminium, a material Vibe says she’s always wanted to work with. The table uses aluminium in two states, unpolished for the table form and highly polished for the ‘cloth’, somewhat askew to evoke the aftermath of the dinner party, says Vibe.  ‘Éclair’ table by Teruhiro Yanagihara The only wooden table is ‘Éclair’ (from the French word for lightning) by Teruhiro Yanagihara, who used Japanese chestnut from an anonymous old-growth forest in Hiroshima. Chestnut is considered a waste material and Yanagihara wants people to reconsider its potential as ‘another forgotten beautiful Japanese wood’. He also employed a master craftsman to make the table in the Sashimono technique using neither glue nor nails, but instead making complex wooden joints carved out with simple chisels and planers.  ‘Don’t be a Square’ table by Stellenbosch Art Foundry With their ‘Don’t be a Square’ table, father and son enterprise Stellenbosch Art Foundry wanted to upend the hierarchy of how people sit around a table and invite us to think outside the box. Through a Tetris of stainless steel, aluminium and bronze cubes in vivid tones under a glass tabletop, the table represents South Africa’s 11 languages, diverse culture and heritage as well as being a symbol for a global discourse. ‘Tulip’ table by Luc Fuller and ‘Éclair’ table by Teruhiro Yanagihara Los Angeles-based artist and designer Luc Fuller, who practises under the name of Spiritual Objects, wanted to use colour and form as the primary expression and also make something that felt ‘sweet and optimistic’. His ‘Tulip’ table is made from laminated marine plywood, cut into shapes like a child’s wooden jigsaw puzzle, painted bright blue, green, yellow and red. ’Tulips for me are a very special flower and a table, of course, is already a special object that is very human. It’s both a communal space to share a meal, a conversation, or a solitary surface to work, write, think and draw,’ says Fuller.  ‘Khokhar’ table by Studio Raw Material Naming the ‘Khokhar’ table after a small village neighbouring their studio in Rajasthan, Studio Raw Material’s Priyanka Sharma and Dushyant Bansal used waste fragments of Dune Yellow marble found in the desert plains of western India. The fragments, collected from construction sites, were preserved in their original form but combined to form a harmonious whole. In this way the table celebrates the ideas and acts of gathering, a theme manifested on Thursday evening when the designers and kindred spirits came together around their tables.  §
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Lucas Bauer’s debut jewellery collection is a sensual delight

‘My pieces have seductive intentions,’ says Lucas Bauer as his first jewellery collection, ‘Hyphos’, celebrates organic forms http://dlvr....